Deep Dish and Dogs: A Chicago Culinary Safari

Walking tour in Chicago

2 hr 30 min
Duration
6
Stops
Easy
Difficulty
foodhistory

About This Tour

Chicago is a city that wears its appetite on its sleeve, and nowhere is this more evident than in the bustling streets of River North. This self-guided walk invites you to explore the 'Holy Trinity' of Chicago cuisine: the iconic deep-dish pizza, the uniquely topped Chicago-style hot dog, and the hearty Italian beef sandwich. As you navigate the neighborhood’s mix of historic brick buildings and modern skyscrapers, you will discover that these flavors are more than just meals; they are artifacts of the city's immigrant history and industrial grit. This culinary route isn't just about eating; it's a neighborhood stroll through the stories of the families who built these institutions during the Great Depression and the post-war boom. Your journey begins with the sweet and salty aroma of Garrett Popcorn, a scent that has defined the Magnificent Mile for decades. From there, you will descend into the subterranean world of the Billy Goat Tavern, a place where sports legends and journalists have swapped stories over 'cheezborgers' since 1934. The walking route then leads you to the neon-lit spectacle of Portillo’s, a masterclass in Chicago-style hot dog assembly, before heading toward the legendary Al’s #1 Italian Beef. Here, the history of the sandwich—born from a need to stretch meat at Italian-American weddings—comes to life. No exploration of the city’s food scene is complete without the buttery crust of Lou Malnati’s, a pioneer of the deep-dish style. Finally, the route concludes at Mr. Beef, a local favorite that gained international fame as the inspiration for the television series 'The Bear.' This walking tour Chicago offers a chance to see how the city's culinary identity was forged in fire, gravy, and tomato sauce. Whether you are a first-time visitor or a seasoned local, this independent adventure provides a deep dive into the flavors that make Chicago one of the world's great food capitals. Explore at your own pace, soaking in the architectural landmarks and the vibrant energy of River North while sampling the city's most famous exports.

Highlights

  • Sample the world-famous 'Chicago Mix' at Garrett Popcorn Shops
  • Descend to the subterranean Billy Goat Tavern, home of the 'Cheezborger'
  • Learn the rules of the Chicago-style hot dog at the neon-clad Portillo's
  • Discover the origins of the Italian Beef sandwich at Al’s #1
  • Experience the legendary buttercrust of Lou Malnati’s deep-dish pizza
  • Visit Mr. Beef, the real-life inspiration for the hit show 'The Bear'

Route Map

Route map for Deep Dish and Dogs: A Chicago Culinary Safari

Numbers indicate the order of stops on the tour

Tour Stops (6)

1

Garrett Popcorn Shops

Start your self-guided adventure at a place that has been a Chicago staple since 1949. Garrett Popcorn Shops began as a family business on Madison Street, and the secret family recipes are still used today. As you stand outside, you will likely catch the scent of the 'Chicago Mix,' a combination of sweet CaramelCrisp and savory CheeseCorn. This snack became so synonymous with the city that it was officially renamed the 'Garrett Mix' to honor its origins. The shop's persistence through decades of urban change reflects the city's own resilience. It’s the perfect light start to a route that will soon become much heavier. Take a moment to appreciate the vintage-inspired storefront before heading south toward the river.

2

Billy Goat Tavern (The Original)

Descend the stairs to the subterranean level of Michigan Avenue to find the Billy Goat Tavern. Established in 1934 by William 'Billy Goat' Sianis, this tavern is legendary for two reasons: the 'Curse of the Billy Goat'—which allegedly kept the Chicago Cubs from winning the World Series for 71 years—and its connection to Saturday Night Live. The 'Cheezborger, Cheezborger!' skit was inspired by the fast-paced, no-nonsense service here. The walls are lined with yellowed newspaper clippings, a testament to its history as a favorite hangout for Chicago's legendary journalists like Mike Royko. It’s a gritty, authentic slice of Chicago history tucked away beneath the glitz of the Magnificent Mile.

3

Portillo's & Barnelli's Chicago

Next, make your way to the corner of Ontario and Clark to find the massive, neon-lit Portillo’s. What started in 1963 as a small trailer called 'The Dog House' has grown into a Chicago institution. This specific location is a museum of Chicago history in itself, decorated with memorabilia from the city’s sporting and industrial past. This is the place to learn the 'rules' of a Chicago-style hot dog: it must be an all-beef frank on a poppy seed bun, topped with yellow mustard, neon-green relish, chopped onions, tomato wedges, a pickle spear, sport peppers, and a dash of celery salt. Crucially, as any local will tell you, ketchup is strictly forbidden.

4

Al's #1 Italian Beef

Continue your neighborhood stroll to Al’s #1 Italian Beef. The Italian beef sandwich is a true Chicago original, born out of the Italian-American community in the early 20th century. During the Great Depression, meat was expensive, so thin slices of roast beef were slow-simmered in a spicy au jus to make the meat go further at weddings and large gatherings. Al’s claims to be the originator of this style, and here you can witness the 'Chicago Lean'—the stance patrons take to avoid getting gravy on their shoes while eating a 'dipped' sandwich. Whether you like yours 'sweet' (with bell peppers) or 'hot' (with spicy giardiniera), this stop is essential for understanding the city's working-class culinary roots.

5

Lou Malnati's Pizzeria

No walking route of Chicago’s food scene would be complete without deep-dish pizza. Lou Malnati’s is often cited as the gold standard for this style. Lou himself got his start at Pizzeria Uno in the 1940s before opening his own place in 1971. The signature here is the 'Buttercrust,' a flaky, biscuit-like base that supports thick layers of cheese and chunky tomato sauce. Unlike traditional pizza, deep-dish is assembled upside down—cheese on the bottom, toppings in the middle, and sauce on top—to prevent the cheese from burning during the long bake time. It’s a meal that requires patience, reflecting the slower, more deliberate pace of a classic Chicago Sunday dinner.

6

Mr. Beef

Your final stop is Mr. Beef on Orleans, a no-frills stand that perfectly captures the industrial history of River North. While always a local favorite, Mr. Beef recently gained worldwide fame as the inspiration for the kitchen in the TV show 'The Bear.' The interior is small, cramped, and filled with photos of celebrities who have visited over the years. This spot represents the 'old' River North—before the art galleries and luxury condos moved in. It’s a place where the focus is entirely on the food and the legacy of the late owner, Joe Zucchero. Standing here, you can feel the pulse of the city’s hustle and the enduring appeal of a simple, perfectly made sandwich.

Frequently Asked Questions

A self-guided culinary route through River North is the best way to experience Chicago's 'Big Three': deep-dish, hot dogs, and Italian beef. This neighborhood stroll covers about 1.5 miles and includes legendary stops like Portillo's and Lou Malnati's.

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