How long does it take to walk from the Quirinal to Piazza Navona?

The walk itself takes about 20-25 minutes of active walking time. However, to properly explore the churches and landmarks like Palazzo Barberini, you should allow at least 90 to 120 minutes for the full experience.

Is the Bernini vs Borromini walk difficult?

No, this is an easy-level walk. The route is mostly flat as it descends from the Quirinal Hill toward the historic center, though visitors should be prepared for typical Roman cobblestones which can be uneven.

Can I see Bernini's work for free in Rome?

Yes, many of Bernini's masterpieces are located in public squares and churches with no admission fee. Highlights on this route include the Fountain of the Four Rivers in Piazza Navona and the Church of Sant'Andrea al Quirinale.

Are the churches on this route always open?

Most Roman churches close for a few hours in the afternoon, typically between 12:30 PM and 3:30 PM or 4:00 PM. It is best to start this walk early in the morning or in the late afternoon to ensure access to the interiors.

Is Sant'Ivo alla Sapienza open to the public?

Sant'Ivo alla Sapienza has very limited opening hours, often only on Sunday mornings from 9:00 AM to 11:00 AM. Even if the interior is closed, the courtyard and the famous corkscrew lantern are visible from the entrance during university hours.

What is the most famous fountain in Piazza Navona?

The most famous is the Fountain of the Four Rivers (Fontana dei Quattro Fiumi), designed by Gian Lorenzo Bernini in 1651. It features an Egyptian obelisk surrounded by four figures representing the major rivers of the four continents known at the time.

Is this self-guided walk suitable for families?

Yes, the route passes through pedestrian-friendly areas like Piazza Navona and includes fascinating stories of a historical 'duel' that can engage older children and teens. The total distance is manageable for most families.

Zigway - The Guide Follows You

About This Tour

Step into the 17th-century streets of Rome to witness one of history's most intense artistic rivalries. This self-guided walk explores the 'Baroque Duel' between Gian Lorenzo Bernini, the charismatic favorite of the Papal court, and Francesco Borromini, the reclusive and tortured architectural genius. While Bernini dazzled Rome with theatrical sculptures and grand gestures, Borromini pushed the boundaries of mathematics and geometry to create structures that seemed to breathe and undulate. This walking route takes you through the heart of the Centro Storico, beginning on the Quirinal Hill and ending in the majestic Piazza Navona. You will discover how their personal animosity fueled some of the world's most breathtaking architectural innovations. Along the way, you'll see the contrast between Bernini’s lavish use of color and light at Sant'Andrea al Quirinale and Borromini's complex, monochromatic geometry at San Carlo alle Quattro Fontane. The route also highlights Palazzo Barberini, where both masters were forced to collaborate, leaving behind two distinct and iconic staircases. As you explore independently, you will learn the legends behind the Fountain of the Four Rivers and the facade of Sant'Agnese in Agone, where the rivalry supposedly reached its peak. This audio walk is perfect for those who want to understand the soul of Baroque Rome without following a rigid schedule. By choosing a self-guided adventure, you can linger in the quiet courtyards or find a nearby cafe to soak in the atmosphere of the Eternal City. Whether you are an architecture enthusiast or a fan of historical drama, this neighborhood stroll reveals the hidden messages and technical triumphs left behind by two men who quite literally reshaped the skyline of Rome.

Highlights

The undulating 'breathing' walls of San Carlo alle Quattro Fontane

Bernini's favorite architectural work at Sant'Andrea al Quirinale

The rival staircases of Palazzo Barberini: one square, one spiral

Borromini's mathematical genius at the corkscrew spire of Sant'Ivo

The theatrical grandeur of Piazza Navona and the Four Rivers Fountain

The dramatic facade of Sant'Agnese in Agone

Tour Stops (6)

Church of St Charles at the Four Fountains

Welcome to San Carlo alle Quattro Fontane, often called San Carlino because of its tiny size. This was Francesco Borromini’s first independent commission and a true manifesto of his style. Unlike the flat facades of the Renaissance, Borromini designed these walls to undulate like waves. Look up at the extraordinary oval dome; it is decorated with a complex honeycomb of crosses, hexagons, and octagons that seem to shrink toward the center, making the small space feel infinitely tall. Borromini worked on this project for free to ensure total creative control, proving that genius doesn't require a massive budget or a vast plot of land.

Church of St Andrew on the Quirinal

Just a short walk away, we find Gian Lorenzo Bernini's answer to Borromini. Bernini considered Sant'Andrea al Quirinale to be his most perfect work. While Borromini focused on complex geometry and white surfaces, Bernini used rich, multi-colored marbles and dramatic lighting to create a theatrical experience. The church is laid out as an oval, but unlike most churches, the entrance and the altar are on the short axis, bringing you immediately close to the divine. Notice the sculpture of St. Andrew appearing to float out of the pediment toward the golden light of the dome—a classic example of Bernini's 'bel composto' or beautiful synthesis of art forms.

Palazzo Barberini

Palazzo Barberini is a rare place where our two rivals had to work under the same roof. As you enter the courtyard, consider the two staircases. On the left, Bernini designed a grand, square-well staircase that is solid and majestic. On the right, Borromini created a breathtaking helicoidal (spiral) staircase supported by twin columns. Borromini’s stairs are an optical marvel, appearing to defy gravity as they wind upward. This building serves as a permanent architectural debate between Bernini’s traditional Roman monumentality and Borromini’s revolutionary, fluid motion. The palace now houses the National Gallery of Ancient Art, containing masterpieces by Caravaggio and Raphael.

St. Ivo alla Sapienza

Hidden within the courtyard of the old University of Rome is St. Ivo alla Sapienza, perhaps Borromini’s most intellectually ambitious project. The floor plan is based on two intersecting triangles, forming a Star of David shape with alternating convex and concave walls. This creates a dizzying sense of movement. If you look up at the exterior, you’ll see the famous corkscrew lantern spiraling toward the sky. It is said to represent the 'Path of Wisdom.' Borromini’s use of geometry here was so radical for the 17th century that some of his contemporaries accused him of being mad, yet today it is hailed as a pinnacle of Baroque thought.

Piazza Navona

Welcome to the grandest stage in Rome. Piazza Navona sits atop the ruins of the ancient Stadium of Domitian, which explains its long, oval shape. In the center stands Bernini’s Fountain of the Four Rivers, a masterpiece of Baroque engineering. Four giant river gods represent the Nile, Ganges, Danube, and Rio de la Plata, supporting a massive Egyptian obelisk. Legend has it that the figure of the Rio de la Plata raises his hand to shield his eyes from the 'hideous' facade of the church in front of him, designed by Borromini. While the dates don't quite support the legend, it perfectly captures the spirit of their lifelong feud.

Chiesa di Sant'Agnese in Agone

Our final stop is Sant'Agnese in Agone, where Borromini took over a project started by others and turned it into a Baroque icon. He pulled the facade back into a concave curve to allow the dome to appear more prominent and taller from the narrow square below. This church demonstrates Borromini’s ability to create a sense of grand scale even when space is limited. Inside, the lavish gold and marble decorations reflect the high Baroque style. Standing here, between Bernini’s fountain and Borromini’s church, you are at the epicenter of the Roman Baroque—a movement defined by the friction and brilliance of two men who couldn't stand one another.

Frequently Asked Questions

The best route starts at the Quirinal Hill at San Carlo alle Quattro Fontane and ends at Piazza Navona. This path covers approximately 1.5 kilometers (0.9 miles) and features the most significant works by rivals Bernini and Borromini, including Palazzo Barberini and Sant'Ivo alla Sapienza.