Is there a lot of walking involved on this route?

The route covers about 1.5 miles (2.4 km). It is considered moderate difficulty because it involves ascending the Caelian Hill and navigating several sets of stairs in the underground archaeological sites.

What are the highlights of the San Clemente Basilica?

The main highlight is the vertical timeline of history. You start in a 12th-century church, descend to a 4th-century basilica with original frescoes, and finally reach a 1st-century Roman house and a Mithraic temple.

Can I see the Colosseum gladiator barracks for free?

Yes, the Ludus Magnus is an open-air archaeological site visible from the sidewalk. You can view the training arena and the ruins of the barracks from the street level at any time without a ticket.

What is the best time of day for this self-guided walk?

Start in the morning around 10:00 AM or early afternoon around 2:30 PM. This timing ensures you avoid the midday closures common in Roman churches and have enough time to visit the underground sites before they close.

Are the Roman houses on the Caelian Hill worth visiting?

Absolutely, the Case Romane del Celio are among the best-preserved Roman domestic buildings in existence. They contain over 20 rooms with incredible frescoes that offer a rare look at ancient Roman interior design.

Is this walking route suitable for children?

Yes, older children often find the 'time travel' aspect of San Clemente and the gladiator stories at Ludus Magnus very engaging. However, the underground stairs are not suitable for strollers.

Where does this walk start and end?

The walk begins at the Basilica of San Pietro in Vincoli (near Metro Cavour) and ends at the atmospheric Clivo di Scauro, which is a short walk from the Colosseum and Metro Line B.

Zigway - The Guide Follows You

About This Tour

Rome is often described as a 'lasagna' of history, with centuries of civilization stacked directly on top of one another. This self-guided walk through the Monti district and the Caelian Hill invites you to peel back those layers and discover what lies beneath the modern pavement. While millions of visitors flock to the Colosseum nearby, few realize that some of the city's most profound secrets are hidden in the basements of unassuming basilicas and buried beneath quiet residential streets. This neighborhood stroll offers a rare glimpse into the vertical evolution of the Eternal City, moving from the Renaissance heights of Michelangelo down to the pagan mysteries of ancient Roman cults. Your journey begins at the Basilica of San Pietro in Vincoli, home to a world-renowned masterpiece and relics that link the city to its early Christian roots. From there, the route takes you past the Ludus Magnus, the primary training ground for the Colosseum’s gladiators, where you can view the excavated remains of the pits where fighters prepared for combat. As you continue your walking route, you will reach the Basilica of San Clemente. This site is arguably the most significant archaeological complex in the city, featuring a 12th-century church built over a 4th-century basilica, which in turn sits atop a 1st-century Roman house and a temple dedicated to the god Mithras. The adventure continues onto the serene Caelian Hill, away from the typical tourist crowds. Here, you will encounter the Basilica of Santi Giovanni e Paolo and the Case Romane del Celio, a series of remarkably preserved Roman houses containing vibrant frescoes that date back nearly two millennia. The walk concludes along the Clivo di Scauro, an ancient Roman road that still retains its original character, framed by medieval arches and the towering walls of historic basilicas. This travel experience is designed for those who want to understand the physical reality of Rome's long history, where the transition from pagan empire to Christian capital is visible in the very stones and soil beneath your feet.

Highlights

Admire Michelangelo’s 'Moses' and the legendary chains of St. Peter

View the ruins of the Ludus Magnus, the Colosseum's gladiator school

Journey through three levels of history at the Basilica of San Clemente

Explore the remarkably preserved frescoes of the Case Romane del Celio

Walk the atmospheric Clivo di Scauro, a rare surviving ancient Roman street

Tour Stops (6)

Basilica of San Pietro in Vincoli

Welcome to the 'Saint Peter in Chains' basilica. This 5th-century church was built to house a very specific relic: the chains that allegedly bound Saint Peter during his imprisonment in Jerusalem and later in Rome. According to legend, when the two sets of chains were brought together, they miraculously fused into one. However, the most famous resident here isn't a relic, but a statue. Michelangelo’s 'Moses' dominates the tomb of Pope Julius II. Notice the incredible detail in the marble—the flowing beard and the intense gaze. Interestingly, Moses is depicted with horns, a result of a common medieval mistranslation of the Hebrew word for 'rays of light.'

Ludus Magnus

Standing here at the corner of Via Labicana, you are looking down into the Ludus Magnus, the largest of the four gladiatorial training schools built by Emperor Domitian. Because the Colosseum was just across the street, an underground tunnel connected these barracks directly to the arena floor, allowing gladiators to enter the stadium without passing through the crowds. You can clearly see the remains of the elliptical practice arena, which was roughly half the size of the Colosseum’s. Surrounding it were the living quarters for the fighters, who were often treated like high-value athletes, albeit ones destined for a brutal life.

Basilica of San Clemente

Prepare to travel back in time. The Basilica of San Clemente is a perfect archaeological 'lasagna.' The current church you see at street level dates to the 12th century. If you descend to the level below, you enter a 4th-century church that was forgotten for centuries after being filled with rubble. But the journey doesn't stop there. Below the 4th-century church lies a 1st-century Roman warehouse and a 'Mithraeum'—a temple dedicated to the mystery cult of Mithras. You can still see the stone benches where initiates sat and hear the sound of an ancient underground stream that still flows through the lowest level.

Basilica Santi Giovanni e Paolo

This basilica is dedicated to two Roman soldiers who were martyred for their faith. While the interior is beautiful, the real treasure is what’s underneath. This site is unique because, unlike many other churches that were built over ruins, this one was built over a series of active Roman houses that were gradually converted into a place of worship. The exterior of the church also features spectacular medieval brickwork and a bell tower that rests upon the foundations of the Temple of the Divine Claudius, showing how Roman religious architecture was literally recycled by the Christian church.

Case Romane del Celio

Enter the Case Romane del Celio to see how the wealthy lived in imperial Rome. These 'Roman Houses of the Caelian Hill' consist of over 20 rooms across multiple levels, featuring frescoes that range from pagan mythological scenes to early Christian motifs. These were high-end apartments and shops that were merged together over time. Walking through these corridors, you can see the 'nymphaeum'—a room dedicated to water nymphs—and get a sense of the domestic life, lighting, and decoration that defined the Roman middle and upper classes during the 2nd and 3rd centuries AD.

Clivo di Scauro

Finish your walk on the Clivo di Scauro, one of the most evocative ancient streets in Rome. This road follows its original Roman path and is flanked by the massive supporting arches of the Basilica of Santi Giovanni e Paolo. These arches were built to shore up the church's walls in the Middle Ages, but the street itself feels like a portal to the past. Take a moment to look at the different styles of masonry in the walls—you'll see Roman brick, medieval stone, and Renaissance repairs all mashed together. It is the perfect place to reflect on the layers of time you have just explored.

Frequently Asked Questions

The full walk takes between 2 to 3 hours. This includes walking time and approximately 30-45 minutes to explore the multi-level excavations at San Clemente and the Case Romane.