Echoes of the Resistance: Bordeaux in WWII

Walking tour in Bordeaux

2 hr 30 min
Duration
6
Stops
Moderate
Difficulty
history

About This Tour

Step back into one of the most transformative periods in French history with this self-guided walking route through Bordeaux. While today the city is celebrated for its world-class vineyards and 18th-century elegance, its streets still whisper stories of the dark days of the German Occupation and the heroic efforts of the French Resistance. This walking route invites you to explore the city's wartime identity, from the clandestine offices of resistance leaders to the imposing concrete structures built by the Third Reich. This is a journey through a city that served as the temporary capital of France three times, most critically in June 1940 as the country faced its darkest hour. On this neighborhood stroll, you will encounter landmarks that served as headquarters for both the occupiers and the liberators. You'll visit the Centre Jean Moulin, a dedicated space for Resistance history, and the Great Synagogue, a poignant reminder of the community’s struggle during the Vichy regime. The route also takes you past the opulent Grand Hotel, which once served as a hub for German command, and concludes at the monumental Base sous-marine. This massive U-boat base in the Bacalan district stands as a stark example of industrial wartime architecture. By following this walking tour Bordeaux, you gain a deeper understanding of how the 'Sleeping Beauty' of France woke up to resist and eventually reclaim its freedom. This self-guided walk is perfect for history enthusiasts and curious travelers who want to look beyond the limestone facades and discover the resilient spirit of the Bordelais people during World War II.

Highlights

  • Visit the Centre Jean Moulin to learn about the icons of the French Resistance
  • Discover the history of the Great Synagogue during the Occupation
  • See the Grand Hotel, former headquarters of the German Kommandantur
  • Pay respects at the Monument aux Girondins, a symbol of French liberty
  • Explore the massive, concrete Base sous-marine U-boat pens
  • Walk the streets where the French government sought refuge in 1940

Route Map

Route map for Echoes of the Resistance: Bordeaux in WWII

Numbers indicate the order of stops on the tour

Tour Stops (6)

1

Centre Jean Moulin

Begin your self-guided adventure at the Centre Jean Moulin, located in the former Caisse d'Épargne building. This museum and documentation center is named after the most famous leader of the French Resistance, who unified the various underground movements under General de Gaulle. Inside, the exhibits trace the timeline of the Occupation in the region, detailing the life of Resistance fighters, the clandestine press, and the eventual liberation of the city. It is a somber but vital introduction to the atmosphere of Bordeaux in the 1940s, highlighting the bravery of those who risked everything to fight from the shadows against the Nazi regime.

2

Place de la République

As you stand in the Place de la République, you are at a crossroads of Bordeaux's judicial and administrative history. During the war, this area was heavily patrolled. Nearby, the Palais de Justice witnessed the implementation of repressive laws under the Vichy government. This square serves as a space for reflection on the loss of civil liberties during the Occupation. It was here and in the surrounding government buildings that the difficult reality of collaboration and the struggle for administrative resistance played out daily. Take a moment to observe the architecture, which reflects the city's transition from a seat of regional power to a occupied zone.

3

Great Synagogue of Bordeaux

The Great Synagogue of Bordeaux is one of the most beautiful in Europe, but its history during WWII is deeply tragic. In 1944, the building was desecrated and used by the occupiers as a detention center for the Jewish population before they were deported to camps like Drancy and eventually Auschwitz. Despite the horrors it witnessed, the structure survived the war—a rarity in occupied Europe. Today, it stands as a testament to the resilience of the Jewish community in Bordeaux. Look at its grand facade, which blends Sephardic and Byzantine styles, and remember the thousands who passed through these doors during the city's darkest days.

4

InterContinental Bordeaux - Le Grand Hotel

This opulent building, known as the Grand Hotel, presents a stark contrast between luxury and war history. During the Occupation, its strategic location in the heart of the city made it the ideal headquarters for the German Kommandantur. The high-ranking officers of the Third Reich walked these halls, overlooking the Place de la Comédie. It was a hub of military administration and social activity for the occupiers, standing just steps away from the Grand Théâtre. Seeing it today, it is hard to imagine the swastika flags once hanging here, but the building remains a silent witness to the city's period of forced hospitality.

5

Monument aux Girondins

The Monument aux Girondins, with its towering column and dramatic fountains, is a tribute to the Girondist deputies of the French Revolution. However, it has a significant WWII story: during the Occupation, the Germans intended to melt down the massive bronze statues for armaments. To save them, members of the local community and resistance sympathizers managed to hide several of the bronze pieces. They weren't fully restored to the monument until decades after the war. This site symbolizes the enduring French values of 'Liberté, Égalité, Fraternité' that the Resistance fought so hard to restore during the 1940s.

6

Base sous-marine

To reach this final stop, a short tram ride or bike ride north is recommended. The Base sous-marine is a colossal concrete bunker built by the Germans between 1941 and 1943 to house the 12th U-boat Flotilla. It was constructed using forced labor, including many Spanish Republicans. The sheer scale is staggering—eleven submarine pens protected by a roof nearly 9 meters thick to withstand aerial bombardment. Today, it has been converted into a unique cultural space known as the Bassins des Lumières, but the raw, indestructible concrete remains a haunting monument to the industrial scale of WWII warfare and the strategic importance of Bordeaux's port.

Frequently Asked Questions

The full walk typically takes 2.5 to 3 hours. This includes time to appreciate the landmarks and the 15-minute tram ride required to reach the Base sous-marine from the city center.

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