Veronetta: The Bohemian Side of the River

Walking tour in Verona

1 hr 50 min
Duration
6
Stops
Moderate
Difficulty
artneighborhoodhidden-gems

About This Tour

Cross the Adige river and step into a world that many visitors to the city of love completely overlook. This self-guided walk through Veronetta reveals the city's 'Little Verona'—a neighborhood that serves as the historic soul and the modern, bohemian heart of the city. While the crowds gather at Juliet’s balcony, this neighborhood stroll invites you to explore a district where medieval architecture meets a vibrant university atmosphere and lush Renaissance gardens. Historically, this area was the first settlement of Verona, and later, during the Austrian occupation, it earned the name 'Veronetta' as a slightly derogatory term from the French, though today it is a badge of pride for locals who appreciate its alternative, artistic vibe. On this walking route, you will discover some of the most impressive artistic treasures in Italy, including the world-renowned wood intarsia of Santa Maria in Organo, which Giorgio Vasari once called the most beautiful in the country. You will wander through the Giusti Garden, a masterpiece of Renaissance landscaping that has hosted luminaries like Mozart and Goethe. As you move from the Romanesque silence of San Giovanni in Valle to the bustling cafes of Via Venti Settembre, you’ll experience the perfect blend of ancient history and contemporary student life. This exploration is ideal for those looking to see a different side of the city, away from the typical walking tour Verona itinerary. Whether you are an art lover, a photography enthusiast, or simply a traveler who enjoys getting lost in authentic local quarters, this self-guided adventure offers a deep dive into the layers of Veronese culture. Discover at your own pace why this district remains the favorite of artists, scholars, and those seeking the city's hidden gems. **Note:** This area is known for its ever-changing character. Street art, pop-up venues, and temporary exhibitions may differ from what's described. That's part of the adventure - you might discover something entirely new!

Highlights

  • The stunning wood intarsia of Fra Giovanni in Santa Maria in Organo
  • Panoramic city views and cypress alleys at the Renaissance Giusti Garden
  • The quiet, medieval atmosphere of the San Giovanni in Valle square
  • Vibrant street life and local bars along Via Venti Settembre
  • The historic Palazzo Giuliari at the University of Verona
  • Crossing the Adige river for a unique perspective of the city skyline

Route Map

Route map for Veronetta: The Bohemian Side of the River

Numbers indicate the order of stops on the tour

Tour Stops (6)

1

Ponte Nuovo

Start your self-guided adventure at Ponte Nuovo, the 'New Bridge.' While the current structure dates back to the post-WWII reconstruction, this crossing point has been vital for centuries. As you stand over the Adige, look back at the towers of the historic center and then forward toward Veronetta. This bridge marks the transition from the tourist-heavy districts to the authentic, 'left bank' side of the city. Historically, the river was a bustling commercial highway, and this area was filled with mills and workshops. Take a moment to appreciate the view of the San Pietro hill rising ahead of you, which was the site of the very first settlement in Verona long before the Romans arrived.

2

Chiesa di Santa Maria in Organo

Step inside this architectural gem to see what many art historians consider a hidden wonder of the world. The church itself dates back to the 7th century, but its true treasure lies in the choir and the sacristy. Here, you will find the incredible wood intarsia—inlaid wood pictures—created by the monk Fra Giovanni da Verona in the late 15th century. The detail is so precise it looks like a painting, featuring perspective views of the city, cupboards with open doors, and scientific instruments. It is a testament to the Renaissance obsession with geometry and perspective. Please note that access to the sacristy may depend on local parish schedules or small maintenance windows.

3

Giusti Garden

The Giusti Garden is one of the finest examples of an Italian Renaissance garden. Created in the 16th century, it features a classic parterre, a hedge maze, and a famous avenue of cypress trees that impressed the poet Goethe. As you walk through, you'll notice the garden is divided into a lower, formal section and an upper, wilder section built into the hillside. Climb the spiral staircase hidden inside the stone turret to reach the upper terrace for one of the best panoramic views of Verona. The garden is a private estate, so check for current entrance fees and opening hours before you begin your stroll.

4

San Giovanni in Valle

Tucked away in a quiet corner of Veronetta, the Church of San Giovanni in Valle is a masterpiece of Romanesque architecture. The square outside feels like a village frozen in time, far from the city's modern noise. The church was built over a pagan temple and later an early Christian cemetery. If the doors are open, descend into the 8th-century crypt to see ancient Roman and early Christian sarcophagi. The exterior walls, made of warm tuff stone and brick, are characteristic of the 'Veronese Romanesque' style. It is a peaceful spot to reflect on the layers of history beneath your feet.

5

Via Venti Settembre

Now, transition from the ancient to the lively present. Via Venti Settembre is the main artery of Veronetta and the heart of its social life. Because of the nearby university, this street is lined with affordable cafes, bookstores, and multi-ethnic eateries. It represents the modern, multicultural face of Verona. As you walk, observe the contrast between the grand palazzos and the more humble, colorful houses. The vibe here is distinctly more 'local' than in the city center. This is a great place to stop for a quick espresso or a glass of local Valpolicella wine as you soak in the neighborhood atmosphere.

6

University of Verona

Your neighborhood stroll concludes at the University of Verona, specifically at the historic Palazzo Giuliari. This building serves as the rectorate and is a beautiful example of how the city repurposes its historic structures for modern education. The university's presence has transformed Veronetta into a hub of intellectual and cultural activity, filling the old streets with energy and art. Explore the courtyards if they are open to the public, or simply enjoy the sight of students gathering under the ancient portals. From here, you are perfectly positioned to dive deeper into the local nightlife or head back across the river via Ponte Navi.

Frequently Asked Questions

A self-guided walk through the Veronetta district is the best way to see hidden gems. This area, located across the Adige river, features sites like the Giusti Garden and the incredible wood carvings of Santa Maria in Organo that most tourists miss.

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