How long does it take to walk through Rione Sanità?

A comprehensive walk takes about 3 to 4 hours. This includes roughly 45 minutes for the Catacombs of San Gaudioso and 45 minutes at the Fontanelle Cemetery, plus time for architectural stops and travel between them.

What is the best time to visit the Fontanelle Cemetery?

The best time is in the morning, between 10:00 AM and 1:00 PM. This ensures you avoid the mid-day closing times (if applicable) and can enjoy the natural light filtering into the caves.

Who was Totò and why is he important to this area?

Totò (Antonio de Curtis) was Italy's most famous 20th-century comedian and actor. Born in Rione Sanità, he is a symbol of Neapolitan identity, and the neighborhood is filled with shrines and murals dedicated to his memory.

Can I visit the Baroque palaces inside?

Palazzo dello Spagnolo and Palazzo Sanfelice are private residential buildings. While you can usually enter the courtyards to view the famous staircases, the individual apartments are private and not open to the public.

Is the walk through Sanità hilly?

The walk is moderately flat as it follows the valley floor, but there are some gentle inclines. The most significant 'climb' is usually the walk up to the Materdei Metro station at the end of the route.

What should I wear for this walking route?

Wear comfortable walking shoes for the cobblestones. If you plan to visit the catacombs, bring a light sweater, as the underground temperature remains cool (around 15°C / 59°F) year-round.

Are there good places to eat in Rione Sanità?

Absolutely. The neighborhood is famous for its food. Don't miss Pasticceria Poppella for their famous 'Fiocco di Neve' pastry, or Pizzeria Concettina ai Tre Santi, which is considered one of the best in Naples.

Zigway - The Guide Follows You

About This Tour

Venture beyond the bustling Spaccanapoli to discover Rione Sanità, a neighborhood that captures the raw, unfiltered soul of Naples. This self-guided walk invites you to explore a district defined by its dramatic contrasts: the opulence of 18th-century Baroque architecture and the mysterious silence of ancient underground ossuaries. Historically, this valley was a site of burial for early Christians, but it later became a playground for the Neapolitan nobility. Today, it is a vibrant labyrinth of street markets, artisanal workshops, and profound local devotion. Your journey begins at the Palazzo dello Spagnolo, a masterpiece of the Baroque of the stairs. As you wander this neighborhood stroll, you will encounter the architectural genius of Ferdinando Sanfelice, whose hawk-wing staircases transformed the local landscape. The route also pays homage to Totò, Italy’s most beloved comedian, who was born in these very streets. As you move deeper into the valley, the theme shifts from the earthly to the eternal. The Basilica di Santa Maria della Sanità serves as the gateway to the Catacombs of San Gaudioso, where early Christian history is literally etched into the volcanic tuff. Finally, the walking route concludes at the Fontanelle Cemetery, a hauntingly beautiful cavern filled with thousands of skulls. Here, you can witness the unique Neapolitan tradition of adopting a soul from the afterlife. This independent travel experience offers a rare glimpse into a part of the city often missed by those sticking to the main tourist path. By following this walking tour Naples route, you will see how Sanità has reinvented itself from a marginalized suburb into a hub of cultural rebirth. Whether you are an architecture enthusiast or a seeker of hidden gems, this self-guided adventure provides the flexibility to linger at a market stall or spend extra time reflecting in the cool air of a crypt. This walking tour Naples experience is perfect for those who want to understand the city's complex relationship with life and death.

Highlights

The 'Hawk-Wing' staircase of Palazzo dello Spagnolo

Ferdinando Sanfelice's architectural masterpieces

The childhood home of the legendary comedian Totò

The vibrant street life and markets of Rione Sanità

The macabre beauty of the Catacombs of San Gaudioso

The 'Anime Pezzentelle' cult at Fontanelle Cemetery

Tour Stops (6)

Palazzo dello Spagnolo

Welcome to the heart of the Sanità district. Standing before you is the Palazzo dello Spagnolo, perhaps the most famous example of the 'Neapolitan Baroque' style. Built in 1738 for the Marquis Nicola Moscati, its defining feature is the double-flight 'hawk-wing' staircase. Notice how the stairs create a sense of movement and drama, a theatrical stage for the residents of the era to see and be seen. The intricate stucco work and the play of light through the open arches make it a photographer's dream. Although it is a private residential building, the courtyard often welcomes respectful visitors looking to admire the genius of architect Ferdinando Sanfelice. It's a reminder of a time when this valley was the most prestigious address in Naples.

Palazzo Sanfelice

Just a short walk away, we find the personal residence of the architect we just mentioned: Ferdinando Sanfelice. Built between 1724 and 1728, this palace served as a prototype for many of the grand residences in the neighborhood. Sanfelice designed it to accommodate his family and to showcase his architectural innovation. Look for the internal staircase, which mirrors the design of the Palazzo dello Spagnolo but with its own unique geometry. This building has a gritty, lived-in charm that captures the modern spirit of Naples; it has frequently appeared as a backdrop in films and television series, including 'Gomorrah.' It perfectly illustrates the Sanità’s blend of aristocratic history and contemporary urban life.

Casa natale di Totò

You are now standing in front of the birthplace of Antonio de Curtis, known to the world simply as Totò. Born here in 1898, Totò was the 'Prince of Laughter' and remains the most iconic figure in Italian cinema and theater. Even decades after his death, his presence in Sanità is palpable. Look around at the street art, small shrines, and local tributes dedicated to him. Totò’s comedy often drew from the daily struggles and the resilient spirit of the Neapolitan people he grew up with here. This humble apartment building is a pilgrimage site for many, representing the neighborhood's pride in its most famous son who never forgot his roots.

Basilica di Santa Maria della Sanità

Dominating the main square is the Basilica di Santa Maria della Sanità, known to locals as 'La Cucchiella.' Built in the early 17th century, its striking dome is covered in yellow and green majolica tiles, a landmark visible from the bridge high above. The church was built directly over the site where the remains of San Gaudioso were found. Inside, you'll find a wealth of Baroque art and a unique circular presbytery. The basilica is more than just a place of worship; it is the center of the neighborhood's social and cultural revival, hosting community projects and providing access to the ancient world beneath its floors.

Catacombe di San Gaudioso

Descending beneath the Basilica, you enter a different world. The Catacombs of San Gaudioso date back to the 4th and 5th centuries. This was the burial site of North African Bishop Gaudiosus. During the 17th century, a macabre burial practice emerged here: the bodies of aristocrats were placed in 'scolatoi' (draining chairs) until only the bones remained. The skulls were then embedded into the walls, and the bodies were painted in frescoes below them, depicting the social status of the deceased. It is a haunting reflection on the Neapolitan philosophy of 'memento mori'—remembering that we must all die—and the thin veil between life and the afterlife.

Fontanelle Cemetery

Our walk concludes at the Fontanelle Cemetery, one of the most evocative sites in Italy. Located in a massive tufa cave, this former quarry became an ossuary in the 17th century to house victims of the plague and famine. What makes this place unique is the cult of the 'anime pezzentelle' (abandoned souls). For centuries, Neapolitans would 'adopt' a skull, cleaning it, giving it a name, and placing it in a small shrine in exchange for protection or favors. Walking through the silent rows of thousands of 'capuzzelle' (skulls), you witness the profound and deeply personal relationship Naples maintains with its ancestors. It is a place of peace, devotion, and incredible mystery.

Frequently Asked Questions

Yes, Rione Sanità is safe for tourists, especially during the day. It has seen a major cultural rebirth in recent years. Like any busy urban area, stay aware of your surroundings and be mindful of the frequent scooter traffic in narrow alleys.