Is it worth visiting the Rione Luzzatti on this walk?

The Rione Luzzatti is the actual neighborhood that inspired the books, but it is located further east and is quite industrial. While this route focuses on the city center landmarks, a detour to the Rione is possible via a short train ride to see the 'Amica Geniale' murals.

What is the best walking tour Naples has for literature lovers?

The 'In the Footsteps of Elena Ferrante' route is widely considered the best literary walk in the city. It connects the emotional beats of the Neapolitan Novels with tangible landmarks like the Rettifilo and Piazza dei Martiri.

Can I do this self-guided walk with a stroller?

It is challenging but possible. Naples is famous for narrow sidewalks and uneven cobblestones, so a sturdy stroller with good suspension is recommended. Be prepared to navigate around parked scooters and heavy pedestrian traffic.

Where can I see the 'My Brilliant Friend' filming locations?

Many scenes were filmed in the Piazza dei Martiri and along the Lungomare. While the Rione was built as a set in Caserta, the streets of the historic center and the Galleria Umberto I were used for authentic location shots.

Is the area around Piazza Garibaldi safe for tourists?

Piazza Garibaldi is generally safe during the day but is very busy. Like many major station areas, it attracts pickpockets, so keep your belongings secure and stay aware of your surroundings.

What is the best time of day to explore the Chiaia district?

Late afternoon is ideal for Chiaia. This is when the 'passeggiata' (evening stroll) begins, the shops are bustling, and the lighting in Piazza dei Martiri is perfect for photography.

Are there many stairs on this walking route?

The route is mostly flat or has gradual inclines, but you will encounter some steps when moving from the historic center toward the Chiaia bridge. Naples is a hilly city, so wear comfortable walking shoes.

Zigway - The Guide Follows You

About This Tour

Step into the pages of the Neapolitan Novels and discover the soul of a city that Elena Ferrante brought to life. This walking route in Naples is more than just a sightseeing trip; it is a journey through the social and emotional geography of Elena Greco and Lila Cerullo. As you traverse the city from the bustling transit hub of the central station to the elegant boutiques of Chiaia, you will experience the same stark contrasts of class, wealth, and opportunity that defined the lives of Ferrante’s protagonists. This self-guided walk invites you to explore the gritty reality of the 'Rettifilo' and the intellectual sanctuary of the city’s historic bookshops. While the fictional 'Rione' is located in the industrial outskirts, this route focuses on the Naples that the characters yearned for and eventually occupied. You will see the streets where Lila’s wedding dress was purchased and the squares where Elena’s academic ambitions took root. Whether you are a devoted fan of 'My Brilliant Friend' or simply a lover of urban history, this literary exploration offers a unique lens through which to view the Neapolitan landscape. Along the way, you will encounter iconic landmarks such as Piazza Dante and the ancient Port’Alba, all while soaking in the vibrant, chaotic energy that makes Naples one of the most atmospheric cities in the world. This is not just a walking tour Naples enthusiasts will love; it is an immersion into a literary phenomenon. Discover the real-world inspirations behind the Solara brothers' influence and the quiet dignity of the city's academic heart. By the time you reach the elegant Piazza dei Martiri, you will understand the profound distance—both physical and metaphorical—between the neighborhood of Elena’s youth and the world she fought so hard to enter. This neighborhood stroll is a challenging but rewarding trek through the heart of Parthenope, perfect for those who want to see the city beyond the typical tourist brochures.

Highlights

The chaotic energy of Piazza Garibaldi, the gateway to the characters' wider world

Corso Umberto I, the 'Rettifilo' where the characters sought fashion and status

The historic book stalls of Port’Alba, Elena’s intellectual sanctuary

Piazza Dante, a hub of student life and political awakening

The elegant Via Chiaia, representing the class divide of the mid-20th century

Piazza dei Martiri, home to the fictional Solara shoe shop

Tour Stops (6)

Piazza Giuseppe Garibaldi

Begin your self-guided adventure at the bustling gateway of Naples. For Elena and Lila, Piazza Garibaldi represented the threshold between their confined neighborhood and the vast possibilities of the city. In the novels, this area is a sensory overload of noise, traffic, and faces—a place where the characters first felt the scale of the world outside the Rione. Today, it remains the city's primary transport hub, recently redesigned by architect Dominique Perrault. Observe the towering 'trees' of the metro station and the constant flux of travelers. This spot captures the frantic, industrial energy that permeates the early chapters of the saga, serving as the starting point for the girls' many escapes into the heart of Naples.

Corso Umberto I

Walk down the long, straight stretch known to locals as 'Il Rettifilo.' Built during the late 19th-century 'Risanamento' to modernize the city, this street plays a pivotal role in the series. It is here that Lila, Elena, and their families came to shop for wedding dresses and luxury goods, seeking to shed their 'neighborhood' identities for something more refined. The architecture here is grand and neoclassical, intended to show off a more European version of Naples. As you walk, imagine the characters marveling at the window displays, feeling both the allure of wealth and the sting of being outsiders in their own city.

Antica Pizzeria Port’Alba

As you enter the historic center, you find yourself at Port’Alba, the city's historic book market. This area is essential to Elena Greco’s transformation. Surrounded by stacks of second-hand books and the scent of old paper, Elena found the tools to build a life beyond the Rione. The Antica Pizzeria Port’Alba, which claims to be the world's first pizzeria, sits at the heart of this literary enclave. In the Ferrante books, this district represents the intellectual salvation of the protagonist. Take a moment to browse the outdoor stalls; many of the booksellers here have families who have operated these stands for generations, much like the world Ferrante describes.

Piazza Dante

Emerging from the narrow Port’Alba, you enter the wide expanse of Piazza Dante. Dominated by a 19th-century statue of the great poet, this square is a central meeting point for students and activists. In the Neapolitan Novels, this area is associated with Elena’s time at the Ginnasio (high school). It was here that she began to engage with political ideas and the radical shifts of the 1960s. The square serves as a bridge between the ancient Greek-Roman streets of the Spaccanapoli and the more modern districts. It is a place of transition, reflecting the internal changes Elena experiences as she moves away from her childhood roots toward an academic future.

Via Chiaia

Continue your walking route toward the sea, entering Via Chiaia. This narrow, winding street is one of the most elegant in Naples, marked by the impressive Ponte di Chiaia overhead. For the girls of the Rione, walking down Via Chiaia was an exercise in social observation. The shops here are more exclusive, the people more polished, and the atmosphere more hushed than the chaotic markets of the center. This street represents the boundary of the 'Naples of the wealthy.' As you walk, notice the shift in atmosphere; the grit of the station and the 'Rettifilo' fades, replaced by the sophisticated charm of a district that Elena Greco eventually comes to call home.

Piazza dei Martiri

Your journey concludes in the prestigious Piazza dei Martiri. This square is the setting for one of the most significant locations in the saga: the luxury shoe shop opened by the Solara family. The square, with its four lions representing different Neapolitan revolutions, epitomizes the high-society world that Lila tried to conquer through business and Elena through her writing. Standing here, you are in the heart of the Chiaia district, surrounded by high-end brands and historic cafes. It is the perfect place to reflect on the long journey from the industrial periphery to this center of Neapolitan power and fashion, just as the characters did throughout their lives.

Frequently Asked Questions

The full route takes approximately 3 to 4 hours to complete at a leisurely pace. This includes time for photos and browsing the bookshops at Port'Alba, covering a distance of about 4 kilometers (2.5 miles).