How long does it take to walk the Takabatake literary route?

Expect to spend between 2 to 3 hours. The total walking distance is approximately 3 kilometers, but you will want extra time to explore the museums and temple grounds.

Is the walk through Takabatake difficult?

It is considered moderate. Most of the route is flat, but the final approach to Byakugo-ji involves a significant incline and stone stairs that may be challenging for those with mobility issues.

When is the best time to visit the Manyo Botanical Gardens?

Late April to early May is ideal to see the famous wisteria in bloom. However, the garden is designed to have plants mentioned in poetry blooming in every season.

Can I see deer on this walking route?

Yes, you will likely encounter deer near Sagi Pond and the Manyo Botanical Gardens. They are generally calmer in these areas than in the main tourist plazas near Todai-ji.

Shiga Naoya (1883–1971) was a prominent Japanese novelist known as the 'God of Fiction.' His residence in Nara was a major cultural hub for writers during the Taisho and early Showa eras.

Are there entrance fees for the stops on this walk?

Yes, most sites including the Irie Taikichi Museum, Shin Yakushi-ji, Shiga Naoya's Residence, and Byakugo-ji require a small admission fee, usually ranging from 300 to 600 yen.

Is this Nara neighborhood stroll suitable for families?

It is best suited for adults and older children interested in history and art. While the gardens and ponds are family-friendly, the quiet museum and temple atmospheres require a respectful presence.

Zigway - The Guide Follows You

About This Tour

While most travelers flock to the Great Buddha of Todai-ji, a quieter, more contemplative side of Nara awaits in the Takabatake district. This self-guided walk explores the intersection of literature, history, and nature, following the footsteps of Japan's most celebrated poets and novelists. Takabatake was once the intellectual heart of the city, a neighborhood of traditional homes and hidden temples where the 'God of Fiction,' Shiga Naoya, and his circle of literary friends once gathered. As you explore independently, you will discover how the landscape of Nara has inspired centuries of creative expression. The walking route begins at the Irie Taikichi Memorial Museum, dedicated to the photographer who spent his life capturing the 'soul' of Nara. From there, you will journey through the ancient gates of Shin Yakushi-ji and into the preserved home of Shiga Naoya, where the architecture itself reflects a literary sensibility. The path then leads into the Manyo Botanical Gardens, a living library of plants mentioned in Japan's oldest collection of poetry, the Manyoshu. Here, the verses of the 8th century come to life among the wisteria and seasonal blooms. As you continue this neighborhood stroll, you will reach the serene Sagi Pond, home to the iconic Ukimido gazebo, before ascending toward Byakugo-ji. This hillside temple offers a breathtaking vantage point over the city, serving as the perfect final stop for reflection. This is not a typical walking tour Nara visitors take; it is a journey for those who prefer to discover at their own pace, away from the crowds, immersed in the same pines and pagodas that have fueled Japanese art for over a millennium. Whether you are a fan of classic literature or simply seeking a peaceful escape into Nara's past, this route provides a deep, atmospheric connection to the city's cultural heritage.

Highlights

The preserved residence of 'God of Fiction' Shiga Naoya

Ancient wisteria and poetic flora at the Manyo Botanical Gardens

Stunning 12 Heavenly General statues at Shin Yakushi-ji

Atmospheric views of Nara from the hillside Byakugo-ji temple

The evocative Nara photography of Irie Taikichi

A peaceful moment at the Ukimido gazebo on Sagi Pond

Tour Stops (6)

Irie Taikichi Memorial Museum of Photography Nara City

Begin your self-guided adventure at a museum dedicated to the man who defined Nara's visual identity. Irie Taikichi spent over half a century photographing the city's Buddhist statues, landscapes, and traditional festivals. His work is deeply connected to the literary theme of this walk, as he sought to capture the 'Manyo' spirit—the ancient aesthetic described in 8th-century poetry. The museum building itself, designed by Kisho Kurokawa, is a masterpiece of modern architecture that harmonizes with the surrounding landscape. Take a moment to appreciate how Irie’s lens turned the silent stone of temples into emotional narratives, setting the stage for the stories you will encounter today.

Shin Yakushi-ji

Just a short walk away lies Shin Yakushi-ji, a temple founded in 747 by Empress Komyo. While much of the original complex was lost to fire, the Main Hall remains a rare example of Nara-period architecture. Inside, you will find the Yakushi Nyorai (Healing Buddha) surrounded by the Twelve Heavenly Generals. These clay figures, with their fierce expressions and dynamic poses, are considered some of the finest examples of Buddhist sculpture in Japan. Writers and artists have long visited this hall to find inspiration in the contrast between the serene Buddha and his militant protectors. The quiet, uncrowded atmosphere here offers a stark contrast to the busier temples in central Nara.

Shiga Naoya's Old Residence

This stop is the heart of our literary theme. Shiga Naoya, often called the 'God of Fiction' in Japan, designed this house himself and lived here during the 1920s and 30s. It became a salon for the 'Shirakaba' (White Birch) literary school, where writers and thinkers gathered to discuss art and philosophy. As you explore the rooms, notice the blend of Japanese, Western, and Chinese architectural elements. The sunroom, in particular, was a revolutionary addition for its time. Shiga wrote his only full-length novel, 'A Dark Night's Passing,' while living here. The garden and the view of Mt. Kasuga from the second floor illustrate the deep connection between his writing and the natural world.

Manyo Botanical Gardens

Located within the grounds of the Kasuga Taisha Shrine, this garden is a living tribute to the Manyoshu, Japan's oldest poetry anthology. The collection contains over 4,500 poems, many of which use plants and flowers as metaphors for human emotion. This garden features over 300 species of plants mentioned in those ancient verses. The most famous feature is the Wisteria Garden, which boasts 20 different varieties that bloom in late April and early May. Even outside of wisteria season, the garden offers a peaceful walking route where you can see the botanical symbols that have appeared in Japanese literature for over 1,200 years.

Sagi Pond

Sagi Pond, or Heron Pond, provides a picturesque transition between the wilder woods of Nara Park and the residential streets of Takabatake. In the center of the pond sits the Ukimido, a hexagonal wooden gazebo that appears to float on the water. This is a favorite spot for local painters and photographers, especially when the cherry blossoms or autumn leaves reflect in the still surface. For the literary traveler, it serves as a place for 'mon no aware'—a Japanese term for the pathos of things or a bittersweet realization of the ephemeral nature of beauty. It is a perfect spot to rest and observe the deer that often wander down to the water's edge.

Byakugo-ji

Your journey concludes at Byakugo-ji, known as the 'Temple of the White Cloud.' Perched on a hillside, it requires a bit of a climb, but the reward is one of the best panoramic views of the Nara basin. This temple is famous for its 'Five-Colored Camellias,' which were a favorite subject of local poets. The quiet grounds house several important Buddhist statues, including a rare image of King Enma, the judge of the afterlife. Standing here as the sun begins to set, looking out over the pagodas and forests you’ve just traversed, you can truly feel the timelessness that has inspired generations of Nara's literary giants.

Frequently Asked Questions

The Poetry and Pines walk through Takabatake is the premier choice. It focuses on the residence of Shiga Naoya and the Manyo Botanical Gardens, which are central to Japan's literary history.