Ghosts and Gallows of the Old Town

Walking tour in Edinburgh

1 hr 15 min
Duration
6
Stops
Easy
Difficulty
dark-historyhidden-gems

About This Tour

Edinburgh's Old Town is a labyrinth of cobblestone wynds and narrow closes, where the shadows of the past feel almost tangible. This self-guided walking route invites you to peel back the layers of the city's prestigious facade to uncover a darker, more macabre history. From the engineering marvel of South Bridge, which hides a subterranean world of misery, to the hallowed and allegedly haunted grounds of Greyfriars Kirkyard, you will explore the sites that defined Edinburgh’s reputation as one of the most haunted cities in the world. As you wander, you will learn about the desperate lives of those who inhabited the 18th-century vaults and the terrifying legends of the Mackenzie Poltergeist. The route leads you through the winding West Bow, a street once home to a notorious 'wizard,' and into the bustling Grassmarket. This area, now known for its vibrant nightlife, was once the primary site of public executions. You will stand where the gallows once loomed and visit pubs that served as the final stop for the condemned. This walking route Edinburgh experience is designed for those who prefer to explore at their own pace, allowing the eerie atmosphere of the Old Town to sink in without the rush of a group. Whether you are a fan of true crime, supernatural legends, or simply want to understand the grittier side of Scottish history, this neighborhood stroll offers a deep dive into the ghosts and gallows that still haunt the capital's collective memory. This audio walk provides the context and stories needed to transform these historic streets into a living museum of the dark and the divine.

Highlights

  • Discover the sinister history of the South Bridge Vaults
  • Visit the tomb of the infamous Mackenzie Poltergeist in Greyfriars Kirkyard
  • Walk the winding West Bow, home to the 'Wizard' Major Weir
  • Stand at the site of the Grassmarket's historic public gallows
  • See the pub where Burke and Hare allegedly found their victims
  • Learn the grim origin of 'The Last Drop' name

Route Map

Route map for Ghosts and Gallows of the Old Town

Numbers indicate the order of stops on the tour

Tour Stops (6)

1

South Bridge

Standing here on South Bridge, it is easy to forget you are actually on a bridge at all. Completed in 1788, this structure was built to span the Cowgate ravine, but it quickly became a site of unintended tragedy. Beneath your feet lie 120 stone vaults. Originally intended for workshops and storage, these damp, airless chambers soon became a subterranean slum for the city's poorest residents and a haven for criminal activity. The conditions were so dire that the vaults were eventually abandoned and sealed off, forgotten for decades. Today, they are considered one of the most haunted locations in the UK. The bridge itself was once considered 'cursed' by locals after the first person to cross it—the wife of a prominent judge—died just days before the official opening, leading many to believe the structure was ill-fated from the start.

2

Greyfriars Kirkyard

Greyfriars Kirkyard is perhaps the most famous cemetery in Scotland. While many come to see the statue of the loyal dog Greyfriars Bobby, the graveyard holds a much darker reputation. In the 17th century, this was the site of the Covenanters' Prison, where hundreds of religious dissidents were held in brutal conditions. Their prosecutor, Sir George Mackenzie, is buried here in a grand black mausoleum. Legend says that since a homeless man broke into the tomb in 1999, the 'Mackenzie Poltergeist' has been unleashed, with hundreds of visitors reporting unexplained scratches and bruises. As you walk through these gates, you are entering a space where the line between the living and the dead has felt thin for centuries.

3

West Bow

As you descend the curving slope of the West Bow, you are walking one of the oldest routes in the city. This street was once the primary entrance to the city for royalty, but it also held a darker resident: Major Thomas Weir. Known as the 'Wizard of West Bow,' Weir was a highly respected citizen who shocked the city in 1670 by confessing to witchcraft and occult practices. He was executed, and his house was said to be so haunted that it stood empty for over a century before being demolished. Look at the architecture here; the street's unique double-level design makes it one of the most photographed spots in Edinburgh, blending medieval charm with a lingering sense of mystery.

4

The Last Drop

This pub’s name is a grim play on words. Located right next to the site of the old gallows, 'The Last Drop' refers to the final meal and drink offered to the condemned before they were led out to be hanged. In the 18th century, public executions were a form of mass entertainment, drawing thousands of spectators. Prisoners would be brought here from the nearby Tolbooth prison to face their fate. The interior of the pub still reflects this dark heritage, with hanging ropes used as part of the decor. It serves as a stark reminder that for many in Old Edinburgh, this very spot was the final thing they ever saw.

5

Grassmarket

The Grassmarket has been a focal point of Edinburgh life since the 14th century. While it is now a place for dining and socializing, for over a hundred years it was the city's main site for public hangings. If you look closely at the pavement near the shadows of the Castle, you will find a stone plinth marking the spot where the gallows stood. One of the most famous stories from this spot is that of Maggie Dickson, known as 'Half-Hangit Maggie.' In 1724, she survived her execution; after being pronounced dead, she woke up in her coffin on the way to the graveyard. Since she had technically 'served' her sentence, she was allowed to live, becoming a local legend.

6

The White Hart Inn

Our final stop, The White Hart Inn, claims to be the oldest pub in Edinburgh, with a cellar dating back to 1516. It has hosted famous figures like Robert Burns and Dorothy Wordsworth, but its connection to the dark side is even more compelling. During the early 19th century, the notorious body snatchers Burke and Hare were said to frequent this inn. They didn't just dig up graves; they enticed fellow patrons back to their lodgings, murdered them, and sold the bodies to the Edinburgh Medical School for dissection. The inn is frequently cited as one of the most haunted pubs in the city, with staff reporting disembodied footsteps and moving objects in the ancient cellar.

Frequently Asked Questions

Greyfriars Kirkyard is widely considered one of the most haunted places in the world. Many visitors report physical sensations, particularly near the Covenanters' Prison and the Black Mausoleum, which is the site of the alleged Mackenzie Poltergeist.

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Download Zigway to experience "Ghosts and Gallows of the Old Town" with AI-powered audio narration. Walk at your own pace while stories unfold around you.

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