Cicchetti Crawl: The Venetian Tapas Trail

Walking tour in Venice

2 hr 30 min
Duration
6
Stops
Easy
Difficulty
foodnightlife

About This Tour

Embark on a culinary journey through the heart of Venice with this self-guided walk through the historic San Polo district. As the sun begins to set over the labyrinthine canals, the city transforms into a vibrant hub for 'cicchetti'—the traditional Venetian small plates that define local social life. This neighborhood stroll focuses on the 'bacari,' or local wine bars, nestled in the shadows of the iconic Rialto Bridge. Unlike a standard walking tour Venice might offer, this independent route allows you to linger over a glass of 'ombra' (local wine) and soak in the atmosphere of the Rialto Market area at your own leisure. You will explore narrow alleyways and hidden courtyards where Venetians have gathered for centuries to share news and snacks after a day's work. The route highlights the deep connection between Venice's maritime history and its unique food culture, featuring establishments that have stood for hundreds of years. From ancient taverns rumored to have been frequented by Casanova to modern canal-side spots with stunning views, this walking route provides a comprehensive taste of the city. You will discover the art of ordering like a local, choosing from an array of 'polpette' (meatballs), 'sarde in saor' (sweet and sour sardines), and creamy 'baccalà mantecato' (whipped cod). This food-focused adventure is more than just a meal; it is an immersion into the social fabric of San Polo. Whether you are a first-time visitor or a seasoned traveler, this self-guided adventure offers the freedom to experience the authentic nightlife of the Serenissima without the constraints of a rigid schedule. By following this trail, you will see how the Rialto area remains the beating heart of Venetian commerce and gastronomy, maintaining its charm even as the modern world rushes by. **Note:** This area is known for its ever-changing character. Street art, pop-up venues, and temporary exhibitions may differ from what's described. That's part of the adventure - you might discover something entirely new!

Highlights

  • Visit Cantina Do Mori, widely considered the oldest wine bar in Venice
  • Explore the atmospheric backstreets of the San Polo district
  • Sample traditional Venetian snacks like baccalà mantecato and sarde in saor
  • Experience the vibrant social ritual of the 'Giro d’Ombra'
  • Enjoy Grand Canal views from the historic Naranzaria
  • Discover the hidden history of the Rialto Market area

Route Map

Route map for Cicchetti Crawl: The Venetian Tapas Trail

Numbers indicate the order of stops on the tour

Tour Stops (6)

1

Cantina Do Spade

Begin your neighborhood stroll at Cantina Do Spade, one of the most storied taverns in Venice. Dating back to the 15th century, this 'bacaro' is steeped in legend; it is often cited as a favorite haunt of Giacomo Casanova, who reportedly brought his conquests here. The interior retains a rustic charm with dark wood and a counter filled with seasonal cicchetti. Try their famous fried seafood or stuffed calamari. As you enjoy your first glass of wine, notice the narrow calle outside, which reflects the medieval layout of San Polo. This spot perfectly illustrates how Venetian social life has revolved around small bites and good company for over half a millennium.

2

Cantina Do Mori

Just a few steps away lies Cantina Do Mori, a legendary establishment founded in 1462. As you step inside, look up at the ceiling decorated with dozens of antique copper pots, a nod to the traditional Venetian kitchen. There are no tables here; following local custom, you stand at the bar or in the narrow corridor. This tavern is famous for its 'Francobollo'—a tiny sandwich filled with various meats and cheeses. The atmosphere is thick with history, and it is easy to imagine the spice merchants of the Rialto gathering here centuries ago. It remains a quintessential stop on any self-guided food-focused walking route through the city.

3

Bar All'Arco

Located near the bustling Rialto Market, Bar All'Arco is a family-run gem beloved by locals. Because of its proximity to the fish and produce markets, the ingredients here are exceptionally fresh. The menu changes based on what the market offers each morning, so you might find creamed cod on crostini or marinated shrimp. The vibe is lively and authentic, especially during the late morning and early evening hours. This stop offers a glimpse into the daily life of Venetians who treat the 'cicchetto' as a vital part of their routine. Stand outside with the crowd to truly feel the energy of the neighborhood.

4

Al Mercà

Al Mercà is a tiny, hole-in-the-wall bar that opens directly onto the Campo Bella Vienna. Despite its small size, it is a powerhouse of the Venetian tapas scene. It is particularly known for its wide selection of regional wines and its perfectly crafted 'panini'—small, soft rolls filled with high-quality cured meats or truffle cream. Because there is almost no indoor space, the patrons spill out into the square, creating a vibrant, open-air party atmosphere. It is an excellent place to observe the younger Venetian crowd and enjoy the evening air. The simplicity of this spot highlights the Venetian focus on quality over pretense.

5

Osteria Bancogiro

Next, head toward the Grand Canal to find Osteria Bancogiro. The name refers to the 'Banco del Giro,' a historic Venetian public bank that operated in this area during the 12th century. The building's vaulted stone ceilings provide a dramatic backdrop for a more modern take on Venetian cuisine. While they offer full meals, their bar snacks are exceptional, often featuring creative combinations of local seafood and seasonal vegetables. If the weather permits, try to find a spot on the terrace overlooking the Grand Canal. It’s a perfect place to reflect on the historical wealth and commercial power that once flowed through this very spot.

6

Naranzaria

Conclude your self-guided walk at Naranzaria, located in a former orange warehouse ('naranza' is Venetian for orange). This stylish venue blends ancient architecture with a contemporary aesthetic. Situated right on the Grand Canal, it offers a more relaxed pace to finish your evening. The menu often features a fusion of Mediterranean flavors and classic Venetian staples. As you look out over the water toward the lights of the Rialto Bridge, you are standing in what was once the center of the global spice trade. It is a fitting end to a trail that celebrates the enduring flavors and social traditions of the floating city.

Frequently Asked Questions

A self-guided walk through the San Polo district is ideal for food lovers. This route focuses on the Rialto Market area, where you can visit historic bacari like Cantina Do Mori and Cantina Do Spade at your own pace.

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