How long does it take to walk the Varanasi ghats?

To explore the architectural highlights between Darbhanga and Scindia Ghats, allow approximately 90 to 120 minutes. The distance is less than 2 kilometers, but the steep steps and historical sites require extra time.

Is the Ratneshwar Mahadev Temple leaning more than the Tower of Pisa?

Yes, it is widely documented that the Ratneshwar Mahadev Temple leans at an angle of roughly 9 degrees. This is significantly more than the Leaning Tower of Pisa, which currently tilts at about 4 degrees.

Can I enter the leaning temple in Varanasi?

Usually, the interior is not accessible because the temple is partially submerged in the Ganges for most of the year. However, you can get very close to the exterior to observe the tilt and the intricate carvings during the dry season.

Is the Varanasi architectural walk difficult?

The walk is considered moderate. While the distance is short, the terrain consists of uneven stone steps and requires climbing up and down between different ghat levels.

What is the best time for a neighborhood stroll in Varanasi?

Sunrise is the ideal time. The temperature is lower, the 'Subah-e-Banaras' light is perfect for photography of the sandstone palaces, and you can witness the morning rituals along the river.

Are there entrance fees for the landmarks on this route?

Most ghats and temples are free to visit. However, the Man Singh Observatory (Man Mahal) requires a small entry fee, which is typically higher for foreign tourists than for Indian nationals.

Where does the architectural walking route start?

The route begins at BrijRama Palace on Darbhanga Ghat, which is easily accessible by walking north from the main Dashashwamedh Ghat.

Zigway - The Guide Follows You

About This Tour

Varanasi is often described as a city where time stands still, yet its architecture tells a story of constant evolution and resilience against the elements. This self-guided walk takes you through the heart of the ghats, focusing on the architectural marvels that define the city's skyline. From fortified palaces to temples that seemingly defy the laws of physics, the Manikarnika and Dashashwamedh areas offer a masterclass in ancient engineering and aesthetic grandeur. As you navigate this neighborhood stroll, you will encounter the legacy of queens, kings, and astronomers who left their mark on the stone steps of the Ganges. The highlight of this walking route is undoubtedly the Ratneshwar Mahadev Temple, famously known as the 'Leaning Temple of Varanasi.' Tilting at an angle greater than the Leaning Tower of Pisa, it stands as a testament to both artistic ambition and the unpredictable nature of the riverbank. Nearby, the Man Singh Observatory showcases a different kind of precision, where 18th-century stone instruments were used to map the heavens. This explore-at-your-own-pace journey allows you to witness the intricate carvings of Ahilyabai Ghat and the imposing sandstone facade of BrijRama Palace, one of the oldest structures on the waterfront. Whether you are interested in the structural history of the Maratha-style buildings or the spiritual significance of the ghats, this walking tour Varanasi route provides a deep dive into the city's physical and cultural foundation.

Highlights

The leaning Ratneshwar Mahadev Temple, which tilts more than the Tower of Pisa

BrijRama Palace, a stunning 18th-century fort-style palace on the water

Man Singh Observatory, featuring 18th-century stone astronomical instruments

Ahilyabai Ghat, built by the legendary Queen of Indore

The intricate stonework and steep steps of Scindia Ghat

Panoramic views of the Ganges from the high platforms of Darbhanga Ghat

Tour Stops (6)

BrijRama Palace

Begin your self-guided adventure at BrijRama Palace, one of the oldest and most imposing structures on the Varanasi ghats. Originally built in 1812 by the Royal House of Nagpur, this palace is a striking example of Maratha architecture mixed with Greek influences. Notice the massive sandstone pillars and the fortified walls that were designed to withstand the rising waters of the Ganges. For centuries, this building served as a royal residence before being meticulously restored. It stands on the Darbhanga Ghat, a location chosen for its height and stability. The palace's presence here marked a shift in the 19th century toward more permanent, stone-built structures along the river, replacing the more fragile wooden platforms of earlier eras.

Munshi Ghat

A short walk along the riverfront brings you to Munshi Ghat. This section of the waterfront is named after Sridhara Narayana Munshi, who was the finance minister for the Estate of Darbhanga. The ghat is essentially an extension of the grand palace you just saw, and it features a beautiful array of steps that lead directly into the river. Architecturally, Munshi Ghat is significant for its clean lines and the way it integrates with the massive Darbhanga Palace above. It is a popular spot for photographers because of the way the morning light hits the golden-hued sandstone. Take a moment to observe the 'pajis' or wooden platforms where local priests and pilgrims gather, a tradition that has remained unchanged for centuries.

Ahilyabai Ghat

As you continue your neighborhood stroll, you arrive at Ahilyabai Ghat. Built in the late 18th century, this ghat holds the distinction of being the first to be named after a person—the celebrated Queen Ahilyabai Holkar of Indore. She was a visionary ruler who funded the reconstruction of many of Varanasi’s most important temples. The architecture here is characterized by its sobriety and strength, reflecting the queen's own reputation for piety and justice. Look for the small shrines tucked into the walls and the precision of the stone blocks. This ghat was designed to be functional and durable, providing a safe space for thousands of pilgrims to perform their daily rituals in the sacred river.

Man Singh Observatory

Rising above the Man Mandir Ghat is the Man Mahal, which houses the Man Singh Observatory. Built in 1600 by Raja Man Singh of Amber, the palace itself is a beautiful fusion of Rajput and Mughal architectural styles, featuring ornate balconies and stone carvings. However, the real treasure is on the roof. In the 1730s, Sawai Jai Singh II of Jaipur added a series of stone astronomical instruments similar to those found in the Jantar Mantar of Delhi and Jaipur. These instruments were used to calculate time, track the movement of stars, and predict eclipses with remarkable accuracy. It represents a moment in history where science and royal patronage met on the banks of the Ganges.

Ratneshwar Mahadev Temple

Now, witness one of the most curious sights in India: the Ratneshwar Mahadev Temple. Unlike the upright temples surrounding it, this structure leans at a significant 9-degree angle toward the north-west. For comparison, the Leaning Tower of Pisa leans at about 4 degrees. While local legends speak of a curse involving a mother’s debt, the architectural reality is a result of the temple being built too low on the riverbank. The weight of the stone structure, combined with the soft silt of the Ganges, caused the foundation to settle unevenly. For much of the year, the lower half of the temple is actually submerged in river water, yet it has remained standing for centuries, defying the immense pressure of the current.

Scindia Ghat

Your walking route concludes at Scindia Ghat, an area known for its narrow, winding alleys and incredibly steep stone steps. Built in 1830 by the Scindia family of Gwalior, the ghat is so heavy that part of it actually collapsed during construction, leaving several small temples partially submerged in the river. This area is a labyrinth of history, where the weight of the stone seems to press against the river itself. The craftsmanship of the remaining pavilions and the intricate carvings on the upper tiers showcase the wealth and devotion of the Maratha rulers. From here, you can look back at the stretch of river you’ve covered and see the skyline of a city that has been rebuilt and reinforced over millennia.

Frequently Asked Questions

A self-guided walk along the northern ghats, specifically focusing on the stretch between Darbhanga Ghat and Scindia Ghat, is best. This area features the 18th-century BrijRama Palace, the scientific Man Singh Observatory, and the gravity-defying Ratneshwar Mahadev Temple.