How long does it take to walk the Hongkou Jewish Ghetto route?

The walk typically takes between 90 and 120 minutes. This includes time to explore the Shanghai Jewish Refugees Museum, walk through Huoshan Park, and admire the 'Little Vienna' architecture on Zhoushan Road.

Is the Shanghai Jewish Refugees Museum worth visiting?

Yes, it is the centerpiece of the district's history. The museum is housed in the former Ohel Moshe Synagogue and contains extensive exhibits, personal testimonies, and artifacts from the families who lived in the ghetto during WWII.

What was 'Little Vienna' in Shanghai?

'Little Vienna' refers to the neighborhood around Zhoushan Road in Hongkou. It earned this name in the late 1930s and 40s because Jewish refugees from Austria and Germany recreated a European atmosphere with cafes, music, and shops in the heart of Shanghai.

Can I do this self-guided walk on a Monday?

While you can walk the streets and parks any day, the Shanghai Jewish Refugees Museum is typically closed on Mondays. It is best to plan your visit between Tuesday and Sunday to experience the full history.

Is the Hongkou district safe for solo travelers?

Yes, Hongkou is a very safe and residential neighborhood. It offers a more local, 'old Shanghai' feel compared to the tourist centers. Just be cautious of traffic in the narrow lanes.

Where does the Jewish Ghetto walk start?

The route starts at the Shanghai Jewish Refugees Museum, located at 62 Changyang Road. The nearest metro station is Tilanqiao on Line 12, which is just a short walk from the entrance.

Are there restrooms along the walking route?

Public restrooms can be found inside the Jewish Refugees Museum and within Huoshan Park. There are also various cafes and shopping centers near Tilanqiao Station with facilities.

Zigway - The Guide Follows You

About This Tour

Step into a poignant chapter of 20th-century history with this self-guided walk through the Hongkou District, once known as 'Little Vienna.' While much of the world closed its doors to those fleeing Nazi-occupied Europe, Shanghai remained an open port, eventually providing sanctuary to over 20,000 Jewish refugees. This walking route explores the narrow lanes and brick tenements where European culture and Shanghainese life fused into a unique, resilient community. You will discover how refugees recreated the atmosphere of Vienna and Berlin in the heart of China, establishing cafes, newspapers, and theaters amidst the challenges of the 'Designated Area for Stateless Refugees.' Starting at the historic Ohel Moshe Synagogue, now the center of the Shanghai Jewish Refugees Museum, this neighborhood stroll leads you through the architectural remnants of the ghetto. You will walk down Zhoushan Road, where the English-style terrace houses once buzzed with the sounds of classical music and German conversation. The route also takes you to Huoshan Park, a rare green space where refugees gathered to find a sense of normalcy, and through the Tilanqiao residential district, where the proximity of the infamous 'Alcatraz of the Orient' prison served as a constant reminder of the era's tensions. This walking tour Shanghai experience offers a deep dive into stories of survival, cooperation between local Chinese residents and the refugee population, and the eventual liberation of the district. Exploring independently allows you to absorb the quiet dignity of these streets at your own pace, uncovering hidden plaques and historical markers that many visitors overlook. Whether you are interested in wartime history, unique architecture, or the cultural heritage of Shanghai, this self-guided adventure provides a moving look at a neighborhood that served as a beacon of hope during one of humanity's darkest hours.

Highlights

The historic Ohel Moshe Synagogue and Refugee Museum

Zhoushan Road's 'Little Vienna' European-style architecture

Huoshan Park’s memorial to the Jewish community

The site of the former White Horse Inn

The atmospheric lanes of the Tilanqiao residential district

Stories of survival and Sino-Jewish cooperation

Tour Stops (6)

Shanghai Jewish Refugees Museum

Begin your self-guided adventure at the Shanghai Jewish Refugees Museum. This site is centered around the former Ohel Moshe Synagogue, which was the spiritual and social heart of the Jewish community in Hongkou. Originally built in 1927, the synagogue served the Russian Jewish community before becoming a vital sanctuary for those fleeing the Holocaust in the late 1930s. As you explore the museum grounds, look for the 'Wall of Names,' which lists thousands of refugees who found safety here. The museum provides the essential context for the rest of your walk, illustrating the daily lives, hardships, and the incredible resilience of the 'Stateless Refugees' who called this neighborhood home.

119 Huo Shan Lu

Walking down Huoshan Road, stop near number 119. This area was the gateway to what was officially called the 'Designated Area for Stateless Refugees,' established by the Japanese occupying forces in 1943. While the refugees had lived in Hongkou since their arrival, they were eventually forced into this restricted sector. Life here became significantly more difficult, with overcrowding and limited freedom of movement. Observe the blend of architectural styles here; these buildings witnessed the transformation of a standard Shanghai residential block into a crowded ghetto where families often shared single rooms partitioned only by curtains, yet still managed to maintain a vibrant communal spirit.

Huoshan Park (North Gate)

Enter Huoshan Park, formerly known as Wayside Park. During the ghetto years, this small green space was one of the few places where refugees could escape their cramped living quarters. It was here that people met to exchange news, play chess, and even hold small musical performances. In the center of the park, you will find a memorial plaque dedicated to the Jewish refugee community, written in Chinese, English, and Hebrew. It stands as a permanent reminder of the 20,000 people who sought refuge in this district. The park remains a popular spot for local residents today, offering a peaceful moment to reflect on the layers of history beneath your feet.

Zhoushan Road

Turn onto Zhoushan Road, the street that most earned the nickname 'Little Vienna.' The architecture here is strikingly different from the surrounding Chinese alleyways. These red-brick terrace houses were built in a style reminiscent of European townhomes. During the 1940s, this street was lined with cafes, bakeries, and small shops run by refugees. You might have heard the sound of Mozart or Strauss drifting from open windows as residents tried to recreate the cultural life of their homelands. It was a place where, despite the poverty and the war, the refugees kept their traditions alive, publishing German-language newspapers and organizing operettas.

Tilanqiao Residential District

As you wander through the Tilanqiao residential district, you are seeing the true 'living history' of Shanghai. This area is a maze of 'lilong' (lane houses) where Jewish refugees and local Shanghainese lived side-by-side. The proximity was a necessity of the time, leading to a unique cultural exchange. Despite the language barrier, many refugees spoke of the kindness of their Chinese neighbors, who were also suffering under the Japanese occupation. Look up at the laundry hanging from bamboo poles and the intricate stonework over the doorways. This district also borders the Tilanqiao Prison, once the largest in the world, whose massive grey walls have loomed over the neighborhood since 1903.

The White Horse

End your walking route at The White Horse (Zum weißen Rößl). This is a reconstructed version of the famous cafe and social hub that once stood nearby. The original White Horse Inn was opened by a refugee from Vienna and became the most popular meeting spot in the ghetto. It was a place for coffee, conversation, and a brief respite from the realities of the war. Today, the building serves as a cafe and a cultural space, often housing exhibitions related to the neighborhood's history. It is the perfect spot to sit down, enjoy a drink, and contemplate the incredible stories of survival and hospitality that define the Jewish history of Hongkou.

Frequently Asked Questions

The Little Vienna route in Hongkou is highly recommended for history enthusiasts. It explores the WWII Jewish Ghetto, featuring the Shanghai Jewish Refugees Museum and the unique European architecture of Zhoushan Road, covering a significant but often overlooked part of world history.