Secret Passages of Renaissance Vieux Lyon

Walking tour in Lyon

1 hr 40 min
Duration
6
Stops
Easy
Difficulty
historyarchitecture

About This Tour

Step back in time to the 15th and 16th centuries with this self-guided walk through Vieux Lyon, one of Europe's most extensive and best-preserved Renaissance districts. This neighborhood stroll invites you to discover the architectural gems hidden behind unassuming wooden doors. As you wander the narrow, cobblestone streets, you will uncover the famous traboules—secret passageways that allowed residents and silk workers to move between buildings and streets while staying sheltered from the elements. These corridors later played a vital role during the French Resistance in World War II, providing clandestine routes for those evading capture. On this walking route, you will encounter the iconic Tour Rose, a striking pink tower tucked away in a quiet courtyard that exemplifies the Italian influence on Lyon's urban design. The journey also highlights the Maison du Chamarier, a residence that once housed the financier of the cathedral, showcasing the transition from Gothic to Renaissance styles. You will explore La Longue Traboule, the longest secret passage in the city, which cuts through four buildings to connect two major streets. This independent travel experience allows you to appreciate the intricate details of stone carvings, spiral staircases, and hidden wells that many visitors overlook. Beyond the secret doors, the route brings you to the heart of the district's religious life at the Cathédrale Saint-Jean-Baptiste. Here, you can admire the 14th-century astronomical clock and the stunning stained glass. Whether you are a history buff or an architecture enthusiast, this walking tour Lyon offers a deep dive into the city's golden age. You can pause whenever you like to sample local pralines or browse the unique shops of the Saint-Jean quarter. This self-guided adventure ensures you see the most significant landmarks of Vieux Lyon while moving at a pace that suits you, uncovering the stories of the merchants and silk weavers who once made this city the economic heart of France.

Highlights

  • Discover the famous 'traboules'—secret Renaissance passageways
  • Admire the iconic Tour Rose in its hidden courtyard
  • Walk through La Longue Traboule, the city's longest hidden passage
  • Explore the ornate Maison du Chamarier and its historic well
  • See the 14th-century astronomical clock inside Saint-Jean Cathedral
  • Experience the UNESCO World Heritage charm of the Saint-Jean district

Route Map

Route map for Secret Passages of Renaissance Vieux Lyon

Numbers indicate the order of stops on the tour

Tour Stops (6)

1

Place de la Baleine

Begin your exploration at Place de la Baleine, a charming small square that serves as a gateway to the Renaissance heart of Lyon. The name, which translates to 'Whale Square,' is believed to stem from a 16th-century shop sign or even a real whale bone once displayed here. This spot perfectly captures the atmosphere of the old city with its narrow buildings and uneven stones. As you look around, notice the height of the structures; during the Renaissance, Lyon grew vertically because space within the city walls was limited. This square was a bustling hub for merchants and traders who arrived from across Europe to attend Lyon's famous fairs.

2

Traboule “Maison du Crible – Tour Rose”

Enter through the doors at 16 Rue du Bœuf to find one of Lyon's most photographed spots: the Tour Rose. This circular pink tower, located within the courtyard of the Maison du Crible, is a masterpiece of Renaissance architecture. Built in the 16th century, the tower houses a spiral staircase that served the various levels of the surrounding apartments. The warm terracotta hue reflects the Italian architectural influence brought to Lyon by Florentine bankers and merchants. This courtyard is a 'traboule,' a private passage that residents allow the public to walk through. Please remember to keep your voice down as people still live in these historic apartments today.

3

La Longue Traboule

Prepare to walk through the most famous passage in the city. La Longue Traboule connects 54 Rue Saint-Jean with 27 Rue du Bœuf. As you navigate this narrow corridor, you are crossing through four different buildings and several internal courtyards. These passages were originally designed to give silk workers a direct, sheltered route to transport their delicate fabrics from the looms to the merchants near the river. During World War II, these secret routes were essential for the French Resistance, allowing members to evade the Gestapo by disappearing into a door on one street and emerging blocks away on another. It is a true architectural labyrinth.

4

Musée Cinéma et Miniature

Located in the magnificent 'Maison des Avocats' (Lawyers' House), this stop highlights a stunning 16th-century building with an arcaded gallery. While the building itself is a historic treasure, it now houses a unique museum dedicated to two distinct arts: the meticulous world of miniature scenes and the secrets of cinema special effects. Even if you don't go inside, take a moment to admire the courtyard's symmetry and the golden-toned stone, known as 'Pierre de Couzon.' This site was once at risk of demolition in the 1960s but was saved and restored, helping to trigger the revitalization of the entire Vieux Lyon district.

5

Maison Du Chamarier

The Maison du Chamarier is one of the most prestigious residences in Vieux Lyon. The 'Chamarier' was an important official—the financier and security chief for the Cathedral's cloister. This building is fascinating because it bridges two eras: the flamboyant Gothic style is visible in the intricate stone carvings, while the Renaissance influence appears in the courtyard's layout. Look for the dry well in the courtyard and the beautiful stone sink, which were luxuries at the time. The famous Marquise de Sévigné, a French aristocrat known for her letters, stayed here in the 17th century. It remains one of the finest examples of domestic architecture from Lyon's golden age.

6

Cathédrale Saint-Jean-Baptiste

Your walk concludes at the Cathédrale Saint-Jean-Baptiste, the seat of the Archbishop of Lyon. Construction began in the 12th century on the ruins of older churches and took 300 years to complete, resulting in a blend of Romanesque and Gothic styles. Inside, you will find a remarkable 14th-century astronomical clock. At certain hours, the clock's automated figures—including angels and a rooster—perform a mechanical play. The cathedral also features 13th-century stained glass windows in the apse that have survived centuries of conflict. The square outside, Place Saint-Jean, offers a perfect view of the Basilica of Notre-Dame de Fourvière perched on the hill above, symbolizing the two hearts of Lyon's religious history.

Frequently Asked Questions

A self-guided walk through Vieux Lyon is widely considered the best option for history enthusiasts. This route covers the Renaissance district, including secret traboules and the Cathédrale Saint-Jean-Baptiste, which dates back to the 12th century.

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