What is the best time of day for this self-guided walk?

Late afternoon is ideal as the shadows lengthen, enhancing the Victorian atmosphere. However, if you want to visit the interiors of the cathedral and the church, aim for between 10:00 AM and 4:00 PM.

Is the Dickens walking route in London difficult?

The walk is considered moderate. While the terrain is mostly flat, the route involves navigating busy street crossings near Borough High Street and walking over historic cobblestones on Clink Street.

Can I see the Marshalsea Prison on this walk?

Yes, you can see the surviving south wall of the prison. While the prison itself was demolished in the mid-19th century, this original brick wall provides a tangible connection to Dickens' family history.

Is this walk suitable for families with children?

Yes, it is family-friendly, though younger children may find the history of prisons and graveyards a bit dark. The George courtyard and the river views at Pickfords Wharf are usually hits with all ages.

Where does the Dickensian Southwark walk start?

The walk begins at Crossbones Graveyard on Redcross Way. It is a short 5-minute walk from either Borough or London Bridge tube stations.

Are there many stairs on this walking route?

No, the route is largely step-free. There are some slight inclines and steps near the cathedral, but these can usually be bypassed by using the main road or designated ramps.

Is it worth doing this walk if I haven't read Dickens?

Absolutely. The route covers significant London history, including the oldest coaching inns and medieval ruins, making it fascinating for any history enthusiast regardless of their literary knowledge.

Zigway - The Guide Follows You

About This Tour

Step into the fog-filled world of Victorian London with a self-guided walk through the historic streets of Southwark. This neighborhood stroll invites you to peel back the layers of time, revealing the gritty reality and social injustices that fueled the imagination of Charles Dickens. Once a chaotic district of prisons, coaching inns, and outcasts situated safely outside the City of London's jurisdiction, Southwark served as both a home and a haunting memory for Britain's greatest novelist. This walking route London focuses on the landmarks that shaped Dickens’ life and his most famous works, particularly 'Little Dorrit' and 'The Pickwick Papers.' You will encounter the haunting Crossbones Graveyard, a final resting place for the city's forgotten souls, and the last remaining galleried coaching inn where Dickens himself likely enjoyed a pint. The route explores the site of the Marshalsea Prison, where the Dickens family's financial ruin began, casting a long shadow over the author’s childhood. By choosing a self-guided adventure, you can linger in the atmospheric alleys of Clink Street or reflect in the quiet garden of Southwark Cathedral at your own pace. This literary journey is more than just a history lesson; it is an exploration of the human condition as seen through the eyes of a man who transformed his personal trauma into timeless fiction. Whether you are a dedicated fan of Victorian literature or a curious traveler seeking the hidden stories of the South Bank, this walking route London offers a profound connection to the city's past. Discover the secrets of the 'outcast dead' and the resilient spirit of the London poor while exploring one of the city's most vibrant and historically dense neighborhoods.

Highlights

Crossbones Graveyard, the final resting place of London's 'outcast dead'

The George, London's last remaining galleried coaching inn

The haunting remains of the Marshalsea Debtor's Prison wall

St George the Martyr, famously known as the 'Little Dorrit Church'

Atmospheric Victorian industrial architecture along Clink Street

Southwark Cathedral's literary monuments and historic grounds

Tour Stops (6)

Crossbones Graveyard & Garden of Remembrance

Start your self-guided walk at one of London's most poignant sites. Crossbones Graveyard was an unconsecrated burial ground for the 'outcast dead,' specifically the 'Winchester Geese'—women who worked in the local brothels licensed by the Bishop of Winchester. By the time it closed in 1853, it held an estimated 15,000 bodies, mostly the poorest residents of Southwark. Charles Dickens was deeply moved by the plight of the urban poor, and this site represents the social neglect he fought against in his writing. Today, the gates are adorned with ribbons and tokens, serving as a powerful memorial to those forgotten by society. Take a moment to appreciate the quiet dignity of the garden before heading toward the river.

The George

Tucked away in a narrow courtyard, The George is a rare survivor of London's golden age of coaching inns. Built in 1677 after a fire destroyed the previous building, it is the city's last remaining galleried coaching inn. Dickens visited this pub frequently and mentioned it in 'Little Dorrit.' Imagine the chaos of horses and travelers that once filled this courtyard while passengers waited for coaches heading to the southeast coast. The wooden galleries and uneven floors are exactly as they would have been in the 19th century. It is the perfect spot to envision the characters of 'The Pickwick Papers' sharing stories over a hearth, representing the social hub of Dickensian London.

Southwark Cathedral

While this cathedral predates Dickens by centuries, its presence is a constant in the history of Southwark. This has been a place of worship for over a thousand years, and it holds monuments to several literary giants. Look for the memorial to John Gower, a contemporary of Chaucer, and the Shakespeare window. For Dickens, the cathedral stood as a grand sentinel over the crowded, often squalid streets of the Borough. The contrast between the cathedral’s Gothic beauty and the surrounding industrial decay was a theme Dickens explored frequently. The churchyard offers a peaceful respite from the modern bustle of nearby Borough Market, allowing you to soak in the area's ancient atmosphere.

Clink Street & Pickfords Wharf

Walk down the narrow, dark canyon of Clink Street to feel the true grit of Victorian Southwark. This area was once dominated by high warehouse walls and the infamous Clink Prison. The brickwork of Pickfords Wharf and the surrounding buildings evokes the industrial energy of the 1800s when the Thames was a crowded highway of commerce and crime. Dickens loved the riverside for its drama and darkness; he often used these damp, foggy settings for his more suspenseful scenes. As you navigate the cobblestones, imagine the sound of heavy iron-wheeled carts and the smell of the tidal river, which Dickens described with both fascination and revulsion throughout his career.

Marshalsea Prison South Wall

This is perhaps the most personal stop on your route. Only a single brick wall remains of the Marshalsea Debtors' Prison, where Charles Dickens’ father was incarcerated for debt when Charles was just 12 years old. The young Dickens was forced to work in a blacking factory to support himself, an experience that scarred him for life and became the central theme of 'Little Dorrit.' The prison wall stands as a grim reminder of the Victorian justice system that Dickens so fiercely criticized. Standing here, you can almost feel the weight of the shame and hardship that drove Dickens to become a champion for the vulnerable and a voice for the voiceless.

St George the Martyr, Southwark

Your walk concludes at St George the Martyr, often called the 'Little Dorrit Church.' In Dickens' novel, the protagonist Amy Dorrit was christened here and later took refuge in the vestry when she was locked out of the Marshalsea Prison for the night. She eventually married Arthur Clennam in this very building. Look for the stained-glass window that depicts Amy herself. The church stands at a busy crossroads, symbolic of the intersection between the harsh reality of the prison that once stood nearby and the spiritual hope found within these walls. It is a fitting end to a journey through the light and shadow of Dickens' Southwark.

Frequently Asked Questions

The walk takes approximately 90 to 120 minutes to complete. This includes time to stop at each of the 6 main landmarks and read the history of the area, covering a distance of about 1.5 miles.