The Devil in the White City: 1893 World’s Fair Grounds

Walking tour in Chicago

3 hr 30 min
Duration
6
Stops
Challenging
Difficulty
historyparkarchitecture

About This Tour

Step back in time to 1893, when Chicago transformed a swampy marshland into a gleaming neoclassical dreamscape known as the 'White City.' This self-guided walk through Jackson Park explores the enduring legacy of the World's Columbian Exposition, an event that redefined American architecture and urban planning. As you navigate these historic grounds, you will trace the footsteps of visionaries like Daniel Burnham and Frederick Law Olmsted, while uncovering the haunting history popularized by the book 'The Devil in the White City.' This neighborhood stroll offers a unique look at how the fair’s grandeur still shapes the Hyde Park lakefront today. Your walking route begins at the majestic Griffin Museum of Science and Industry, the only major structure from the fair built to last. From there, you will venture into the tranquil Wooded Island, a sanctuary designed to offer fairgoers a respite from the overwhelming 'City of Palaces.' Discover the hidden Garden of the Phoenix, a symbol of international friendship that survived the fair's eventual decline. As you explore independently, you will encounter the 'Golden Lady'—the Statue of the Republic—which stands as a scaled reminder of the fair's immense scale. The route then leads you toward the shores of Lake Michigan at 63rd Street Beach, where the fair’s innovative moving sidewalk once greeted visitors arriving by boat. Finally, the path takes you to the Midway Plaisance, the site of the world’s first Ferris Wheel and the birthplace of the modern midway. This walking tour Chicago experience is more than just a history lesson; it is a deep dive into a pivotal moment in American culture. Whether you are a fan of architecture, a history buff, or a reader of Erik Larson’s true-crime thriller, this self-guided adventure allows you to uncover the triumphs and shadows of 1893 at your own pace. Start exploring with Zigway and see the remnants of the White City that still haunt and inspire the Windy City.

Highlights

  • The Griffin Museum of Science and Industry, the fair's last grand palace
  • The serene Garden of the Phoenix on Wooded Island
  • The 'Golden Lady' Statue of the Republic
  • The historic 63rd Street Beach House
  • The Midway Plaisance, home of the original Ferris Wheel site
  • Lush landscapes designed by Frederick Law Olmsted

Route Map

Route map for The Devil in the White City: 1893 World’s Fair Grounds

Numbers indicate the order of stops on the tour

Tour Stops (6)

1

Griffin Museum of Science and Industry

Begin your self-guided adventure at the Griffin Museum of Science and Industry. During the 1893 World’s Columbian Exposition, this structure served as the Palace of Fine Arts. While most of the 'White City' was constructed from 'staff'—a temporary mixture of plaster of Paris and hemp fiber—this building was built with a brick substructure to protect the priceless global artworks housed inside from fire. Its neoclassical design, featuring ionic columns and caryatids, is a prime example of the Beaux-Arts style that Daniel Burnham championed. After the fair, it housed the Field Museum before becoming the MSI in 1933. Stand back to admire the scale; it serves as a hauntingly beautiful reminder of the architectural ambition that once covered this entire park.

2

The Osaka Garden - Garden of the Phoenix

Follow the path south to the Garden of the Phoenix, also known as the Osaka Garden. This site was the location of the Ho-o-den (Phoenix Pavilion) during the 1893 Fair, a gift from the Japanese government. While the original wooden structures were lost to arson in the 1940s, the garden remains a peaceful retreat. In 1981, the garden was revitalized, featuring traditional Japanese landscaping, stone lanterns, and a moon bridge. It represents a rare moment of cultural exchange from the fair that has survived into the modern era. Look for 'Sky Landing,' a series of steel lotus petals created by Yoko Ono, which stands as a symbolic gesture of peace and a bridge between the past and the future.

3

Wooded Island

You are now on Wooded Island, the naturalistic heart of Frederick Law Olmsted’s design for Jackson Park. Olmsted, the father of American landscape architecture, fought to keep this island free of grand buildings to provide a 'refreshing' contrast to the fair’s paved plazas. During the fair, this was a place for quiet reflection, though it did host the Japanese pavilion you just visited. Today, it is a premier bird-watching spot and a designated lagoonside sanctuary. As you wander the winding paths, imagine the contrast between this lush greenery and the gleaming white palaces that once stood just across the water. It remains one of the most successful examples of Olmsted’s 'emerald necklace' philosophy in Chicago.

4

Statue of The Republic

As you head toward the southern end of the lagoons, you will see the 'Golden Lady.' This 24-foot-tall gilded bronze statue is a smaller replica of the original 65-foot-tall Statue of the Republic that stood in the fair’s Court of Honor. Sculpted by Daniel Chester French—who later created the seated Lincoln for the Lincoln Memorial—the original was a symbol of American unity following the Civil War. The current statue was commissioned in 1918 to commemorate the 25th anniversary of the fair and the centennial of Illinois statehood. She holds a globe and a staff topped with a liberty cap, facing west to look over the grounds where the White City once stood in all its temporary glory.

5

63rd Street Beach

Walk toward the lakefront to reach the 63rd Street Beach. The historic beach house you see here was completed in 1919, replacing a smaller structure from the fair era. During the 1893 Exposition, this area was a bustling hub of activity where visitors would arrive by steamship from downtown Chicago. Near here stood the Great Pier, which extended 2,500 feet into Lake Michigan and featured a revolutionary 'moving sidewalk' that transported weary fairgoers. While the grand casinos and music halls of the fair are gone, the beach remains a vital public space, offering sweeping views of the lake that once reflected the brilliant electric lights of the White City at night.

6

Midway Plaisance Park

Your final stop is the Midway Plaisance, a mile-long parkway connecting Jackson Park to Washington Park. During the 1893 Fair, this was the 'entertainment' district, a stark contrast to the formal dignity of the White City. This is where the world’s first Ferris Wheel, designed by George Washington Gale Ferris Jr., towered over the city at 264 feet. The Midway was a sensory overload of international villages, street performers, and the famous 'Little Egypt' dancers. Today, it is a sunken park bordered by the University of Chicago. Look for the 'Fountain of Time' sculpture at the west end, which serves as a monumental tribute to the passage of time and the fleeting nature of the fair.

Frequently Asked Questions

The 1893 World's Fair route is the top choice for history enthusiasts. It covers the actual grounds of the Columbian Exposition in Jackson Park, including the Museum of Science and Industry and the Midway Plaisance, totaling about 3 to 4 miles of exploration.

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