Seville's Golden Age Tapas Crawl

Walking tour in Seville

2 hr 30 min
Duration
6
Stops
Easy
Difficulty
foodnightlife

About This Tour

Seville's Golden Age was a period of unprecedented wealth and artistic flourishing, fueled by the riches flowing from the Americas through the Guadalquivir River. This self-guided walk invites you to experience that history through its most enduring legacy: the tavern culture. In Seville, a 'tasca' or 'bodega' is more than just a place to eat; it is a living museum where the traditions of the 17th century meet the vibrant energy of modern Andalusian life. This walking route takes you through the winding alleys of the Santa Cruz neighborhood and into the heart of the Centro district, visiting some of the most storied establishments in Spain. As you explore independently, you will discover how Seville’s culinary identity was shaped by its maritime history and its position as the gateway to the New World. You will see bars where the tabs are still written in chalk on wooden counters and where massive clay jars once stored the wine that fueled the city's artists and explorers. This neighborhood stroll is not just about the food, but about the atmosphere—the scent of orange blossoms mixed with fried fish, the sound of lively conversation echoing off Moorish walls, and the sight of cured hams hanging from dark wooden rafters. Highlights of this experience include a visit to what is widely considered the oldest bar in the city, established in 1670, and a stop at a family-run bodega where the decor hasn't changed since the mid-19th century. Whether you are sampling dry Manzanilla sherry or tasting the secret marinade of Seville's most famous fried fish, this route provides a deep dive into the local way of life. This walking tour Seville offers is designed for those who want to skip the tourist traps and eat like a 'Sevillano' while soaking in centuries of history. By following this route at your own pace, you can linger over a glass of vermouth or move quickly between stops as the evening mood takes you. It is a sensory journey through the flavors that defined the Golden Age and continue to define Seville today. **Note:** This area is known for its ever-changing character. Street art, pop-up venues, and temporary exhibitions may differ from what's described. That's part of the adventure - you might discover something entirely new!

Highlights

  • Visit El Rinconcillo, Seville’s oldest bar dating back to 1670
  • See the massive 19th-century clay wine jars at Bar Casa Morales
  • Sample the legendary 'Boquerones en Adobo' at Blanco Cerrillo
  • Experience the vibrant social atmosphere of Bodega Santa Cruz
  • Admire the traditional tilework and hanging hams of Las Teresas
  • Taste authentic Seville-style vermouth and local Sherry

Route Map

Route map for Seville's Golden Age Tapas Crawl

Numbers indicate the order of stops on the tour

Tour Stops (6)

1

Las Teresas

Welcome to Las Teresas, a quintessential Sevillian tavern located in the heart of the Barrio Santa Cruz. Established in 1870, this bar is a visual feast of Andalusian tradition. Look up to see the forest of Jamón Ibérico hanging from the ceiling and admire the walls covered in old festival posters and religious iconography. This spot is famous for its precision-carved ham and its extensive selection of Sherries. The building itself reflects the narrow, labyrinthine architecture of the old Jewish Quarter. It is a perfect place to start your self-guided adventure, soaking in an atmosphere that has remained largely unchanged for over a century.

2

Bodega Santa Cruz Las Columnas

Just a short walk away is Bodega Santa Cruz, affectionately known by locals as 'Las Columnas' due to the ancient columns at its entrance. This is one of the most high-energy spots in the city. Here, the service is fast, the crowds are thick, and the energy is infectious. It is a classic 'standing room' bar where the social aspect is just as important as the food. The menu here features Sevillian staples like 'montaditos' (small sandwiches) and 'espinacas con garbanzos' (spinach with chickpeas). Observe how the bartenders keep track of orders by writing the total in chalk directly on the bar top—a tradition that is slowly disappearing elsewhere.

3

Bar Casa Morales

Step into Bar Casa Morales and you are stepping back to 1850. This bar is split into two sections: a modern front and a breathtaking back room. In the rear, you will find enormous 'tinajas'—giant clay vats that were historically used to store wine. These jars are so large they were often built into the structure of the building itself. Casa Morales has been run by the same family for generations, maintaining a sense of dignity and history that is rare to find. It is an ideal spot to try a glass of Valdepeñas wine and a 'tapa' of Manchego cheese while admiring the rustic wooden beams and dusty wine bottles.

4

Bar El Comercio

While Bar El Comercio is world-famous for its thick hot chocolate and churros in the morning, by evening it transforms into a sophisticated spot for an aperitif. Founded in 1904, the interior is a masterpiece of Sevillian tilework and dark wood. This stop represents the 'trading' history of the city, located near the main shopping thoroughfares. It is highly recommended to try their homemade vermouth, which is served on tap and often garnished with a slice of orange and an olive. The narrow, deep layout of the bar is typical of the early 20th-century commercial buildings in Seville's center.

5

Bodeguita Blanco Cerrillo

You will likely smell Bodeguita Blanco Cerrillo before you see it. This tiny, unassuming bar is legendary for one thing: 'Boquerones en Adobo' (marinated fried anchovies). The secret recipe for their marinade—heavy on cumin, oregano, and garlic—fills the surrounding streets with an unmistakable aroma. This is a local favorite where people gather on the sidewalk with a cold beer and a small plate of fish. It is a 'no-frills' experience that captures the gritty, authentic side of Seville's food scene. Please note that this spot can be extremely crowded, and service is brisk, reflecting its status as a cult favorite among residents.

6

El Rinconcillo

Your journey ends at El Rinconcillo, the crown jewel of Seville’s tavern history. Records show a tavern has existed on this spot since 1670, making it the oldest bar in the city and one of the oldest in Spain. The building was once part of a convent, and the interior features stunning Mudéjar-style brickwork and ornate wood carvings. As you stand at the bar, you are standing where centuries of Sevillians have gathered to discuss politics, art, and the city's famous Holy Week. The bartenders here are known for their formal white jackets and traditional service. It is the perfect place to reflect on the Golden Age while enjoying a final plate of classic tapas.

Frequently Asked Questions

A self-guided walk through the historic taverns of the Centro and Santa Cruz neighborhoods is the best way to experience Seville's food. This route allows you to visit iconic spots like El Rinconcillo and Casa Morales at your own pace, ensuring an authentic experience away from group tours.

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