Is the 168 Stairs monorail free?

Yes, the monorail at the 168 Stairs is free for both residents and visitors. It was installed primarily to help the elderly residents of the Dong-gu district navigate the steep terrain, but it has become a popular attraction for travelers as well.

Is this walking route difficult?

This walk is considered challenging due to the significant elevation gain and the steepness of the stairs. While the monorail can bypass the hardest section, you will still encounter inclines and uneven pavement throughout the neighborhood.

What is the best time to visit Choryang Ibagu-gil?

The best time is late afternoon, about two hours before sunset. This allows you to see the murals in daylight and then enjoy the sunset and the evening lights of Busan Harbor from the Kim Min-Bu Observatory.

Can I use a stroller on this Busan walking route?

No, a stroller is not recommended for this specific route. The neighborhood consists of many narrow alleys and sets of stairs that are inaccessible to wheels. A baby carrier is a much better option for families with small children.

Where does the Choryang Ibagu-gil start?

The route starts near Busan Station. You can begin at the Choryang Traditional Market, which is about a 5-minute walk from Busan Subway Station (Line 1), Exit 7.

Is the Choryang Ibagu-gil worth visiting?

Absolutely, it is one of Busan's most authentic historical sites. It offers a much deeper look into the city's post-war history and refugee culture than the more modernized tourist districts like Centum City or Gwangalli.

Are there places to eat along the hillside walk?

Yes, you will find several small 'Ibagu' themed cafes and traditional restaurants. The Choryang Market at the start is excellent for street food, and there are small eateries near the top of the 168 Stairs serving local favorites like Dosirak (vintage lunchboxes).

Zigway - The Guide Follows You

About This Tour

Perched on the steep slopes above Busan Station, Choryang-dong is a neighborhood that wears its history on its sleeve. This self-guided walk through the Choryang Ibagu-gil—which translates to 'Story Road' in the local dialect—offers a profound look into the resilience of Busan’s residents during and after the Korean War. As the city swelled with refugees, the only places left to build were the dizzying hillsides. Today, these vertical alleys have been transformed into a living museum, blending gritty historical reality with vibrant modern art. Exploring this neighborhood independently allows you to feel the physical exertion that was once a daily requirement for the residents here. The route begins at the bustling Choryang Traditional Market, where the scents of local delicacies provide a sensory introduction to the area's heritage. From there, you will ascend into the 'Ibagu-gil,' a path lined with murals and photographs that narrate the evolution of the city. The centerpiece of this walking route is the 168 Stairs, a legendary incline that served as the primary artery for the hillside community. You can choose to test your stamina on the steps or take the modern monorail for a bird's-eye view of the tightly packed rooftops. Along the way, you will discover quiet observatories dedicated to local poets and find yourself on the Sanbok-ro (Hillside Road), which offers some of the most iconic panoramic views of Busan Harbor and the North Port. This is more than just a photography excursion; it is a journey through the social fabric of Busan. You will see how the 'sanman-di' (hilltop) life has transitioned from a place of survival to a cherished cultural asset. This neighborhood stroll is perfect for those who want to escape the neon lights of Haeundae and connect with the authentic, hardworking spirit of the city. Be prepared for a physical challenge, as the 'Steps Through Time' truly live up to their name, rewarding every climber with a deeper understanding of the Busan identity.

Highlights

Navigate the historic 168 Stairs, the former lifeline of the hillside community

Experience the Yeongju-dong Monorail for a unique vertical transit perspective

Sample authentic local flavors at the Choryang Traditional Market

Enjoy panoramic views of Busan Harbor from the Kim Min-Bu Observatory

Explore the 'Ibagu' murals detailing the lives of post-war refugees

Walk the Sanbok-ro, Busan's iconic 'Hillside Road'

Tour Stops (6)

Choryang Traditional Market

Welcome to the starting point of your self-guided adventure. Choryang Traditional Market emerged in the 1960s, serving as a vital hub for the refugees who settled on these hills after the Korean War. Unlike the more famous Jagalchi Market, Choryang has a distinctively local, neighborhood feel. As you wander through the stalls, look for 'dwaeji-gukbap' (pork soup) or 'milmyeon' (wheat noodles)—dishes that became Busan staples during times of food scarcity. This market wasn't just a place to buy goods; it was a community anchor for people rebuilding their lives from scratch. Take a moment to soak in the atmosphere before we begin the ascent into the hills.

Choryang Ibagu-gil Alley

As you enter the Ibagu-gil, the word 'Ibagu' is your key to understanding this path—it means 'story' in the Gyeongsang-do dialect. This alleyway serves as a vertical gallery. Look at the walls; you'll see portraits of local figures, historical photographs of the harbor, and murals that depict the 'A-frame' laborers who carried heavy loads up these slopes. This path was designed to preserve the memories of the 'Sanbok-ro' residents. Each turn in the alley reveals a different chapter of Busan's growth, from a small port town to a global maritime hub. Notice how the architecture clings to the hillside, utilizing every inch of available space.

168 Stairs

You are now standing at the base of the 168 Stairs, the most famous landmark in Dong-gu. For decades, this was the only way for residents to reach the city below. Imagine carrying water buckets or coal briquettes up these steps every single day. The stairs were a place of both hardship and social gathering. In 2016, a monorail was installed to assist the elderly residents, but the stairs remain as a monument to the community's endurance. Whether you choose to climb or ride, look back as you ascend; the view of the harbor begins to open up, framed perfectly by the narrow canyon of buildings.

Kim Min-Bu Observatory

This peaceful terrace is dedicated to the poet Kim Min-bu, a Busan native known for the lyrics to the famous song 'Waiting Heart.' The observatory offers a moment of reflection away from the steep climb. From here, you have an unobstructed view of Busan Station and the massive cruise ships in the harbor. It’s a perfect spot to observe the contrast between the old hillside homes and the glass skyscrapers of the modern waterfront. The poetry inscribed here often touches on themes of longing and the sea, echoing the sentiments of many who watched the horizon from these very hills while waiting for loved ones to return.

Yeongju-dong Monorail

The Yeongju-dong Monorail is a fascinating example of urban problem-solving. Like the 168 Stairs monorail, this small, box-like car provides essential transit for a neighborhood where traditional buses cannot reach. It operates on an incredibly steep grade, cutting through the backyards of local houses. Riding or walking alongside this track gives you a sense of the 'vertical village' lifestyle. It highlights the city's commitment to maintaining these historic hilltop communities rather than clearing them for high-rises. The slow, steady pace of the monorail matches the rhythm of life in Yeongju-dong, where time seems to move a bit differently than in the busy city center below.

Busan Mail Center

As we conclude our walk near the historical communication hubs of the city, reflect on how information once traveled through these hills. In the early post-war years, the postal service was the only link between refugees and the families they left behind. While the modern mail center represents the efficiency of today's Busan, it stands on the foundation of the 'Postbox of You Chi-hwan' and other literary landmarks nearby that celebrate the written word. This area marks the transition from the winding 'Story Road' back into the structured grid of the modern city. From here, the spirit of the Ibagu-gil continues to influence the city's identity as a place of connection and resilience.

Frequently Asked Questions

The full walking route typically takes between 90 and 120 minutes. This includes time to explore the Choryang Market, climb or ride the 168 Stairs, and stop for photos at the various observatories along the hillside.