Is the Dark Dublin walking route suitable for children?

It is generally suitable for older children and teens, but the themes of mummies and executions might be frightening for very young kids. The crypts at St Michan's are particularly eerie.

Can I see the mummies at St Michan's every day?

No, the crypts have specific opening hours and are usually closed on Sundays and during church services. It is best to check the St Michan's Church website for current schedules before you start your walk.

Is this walking tour Dublin accessible for wheelchairs?

Most of the street-level route is accessible, though some medieval areas have uneven cobblestones. However, the crypts at St Michan's are only accessible via steep stairs and are not wheelchair friendly.

What is the best time of day to start this self-guided walk?

The best time to start is in the early afternoon, around 1:00 PM or 2:00 PM. This ensures you reach the landmarks while they are open and finishes the walk as the atmosphere in the Medieval Quarter begins to turn evening-scenic.

Are there any hills on this walking route?

The route is mostly flat as it follows the Liffey valley, but there is a slight incline as you move from the river up toward Dublin Castle and the Medieval Quarter.

Do I need to buy tickets in advance for any of the stops?

You do not need to book for the streets or squares, but St Michan's crypts and the Dublin Castle State Apartments usually require an entry fee paid on-site or online.

Is it worth doing this walk at night?

While the atmosphere is very spooky at night, many of the key stops like the church crypts and castle interiors will be closed. A daytime walk followed by a drink at a historic pub is recommended.

Zigway - The Guide Follows You

About This Tour

Peel back the layers of Dublin’s storied past on this self-guided walk through the city's darker corners. While many visitors stick to the bright lights of Temple Bar, this walking route takes you through the atmospheric streets of Smithfield and the Medieval Quarter, where the shadows of the past loom large. You will explore a side of the city defined by ancient crypts, infamous execution sites, and legends of serial killers that have haunted Dubliners for centuries. This experience is designed for those who prefer to discover independently, allowing you to linger in the eerie quiet of a medieval alleyway or pause for a pint in a pub that has stood for nearly a millennium. The journey begins in the vast expanse of Smithfield Square, once a bustling marketplace and a site of grim public spectacles. From there, you will make your way to the doorstep of St Michan’s Church, home to mummified remains that allegedly inspired the creator of Dracula. As you cross the Liffey, the route leads you into the heart of the old city. You will encounter The Brazen Head, Ireland’s oldest hostelry, where rebels once plotted in secret, and hear the chilling tale of Darkey Kelly near the site of her alleged crimes. The walk concludes at the formidable Dublin Castle, a structure that served as the nerve center of British rule for centuries and holds many secrets within its walls. This audio walk offers a deep dive into the macabre history of the Irish capital, blending verified historical accounts with the folklore that gives Dublin its unique character. Whether you are a history buff or a fan of the supernatural, this neighborhood stroll provides a compelling look at the figures who lived, died, and—some say—still linger in the city’s medieval heart.

Highlights

The mummified remains in the crypts of St Michan's Church

Smithfield Square's history as a site of public execution

A visit to The Brazen Head, Ireland’s oldest pub

The dark legend of the serial killer Darkey Kelly

The hidden history of Copper Alley and the medieval slums

The imposing architecture and dark secrets of Dublin Castle

Tour Stops (6)

Smithfield Square

Begin your self-guided adventure in Smithfield Square. Today, this is a vibrant public space known for its cinema and restaurants, but it was once the site of Dublin’s main livestock market. Since the 1600s, this area has been a hub of activity, though not all of it was pleasant. In the 18th and 19th centuries, the square and its surrounding streets were often used for public punishments and executions. The open space allowed large crowds to gather and witness the 'justice' of the day. As you stand here, imagine the smells of the cattle market and the roar of the crowds. Look up at the Chimney Viewing Tower; it was originally part of the Jameson Distillery, a reminder of the industrial heritage that once defined this neighborhood before it transformed into the cultural hub you see today.

St Michan's Church of Ireland

A short walk from the square brings you to St Michan’s. While the church itself is beautiful, the real draw lies beneath your feet. The limestone vaults here have a unique preservative quality that has mummified the bodies interred within. Among the residents of the crypt are the Sheares brothers, executed for their role in the 1798 Rebellion, and a figure known as 'The Crusader.' Legend has it that Bram Stoker, the Dublin-born author of Dracula, visited these crypts as a young man, and the sight of the preserved corpses influenced his famous gothic novel. The church serves as a stark reminder of Dublin’s medieval roots and the thin veil between the living and the dead in this ancient part of the city.

The Brazen Head

Cross the Liffey to find The Brazen Head, officially recognized as the oldest pub in Ireland, with a history dating back to 1198. This isn't just a place for a drink; it was a meeting point for some of Ireland’s most famous rebels. Robert Emmet, who led the 1803 uprising, is said to have held secret meetings here. Local lore suggests his ghost still keeps watch near the entrance. The building you see today mostly dates from the 1700s, but the site has been an inn for nearly a millennium. It represents the resilient spirit of Dublin, surviving wars, rebellions, and the passage of time while remaining a cornerstone of the city’s social fabric. Take a moment to appreciate the weathered stone walls and the countless stories they hold.

Darkey Kelly's

Continue toward Fishamble Street to reach Darkey Kelly’s. The woman behind the name, Dorcas Kelly, is one of Dublin’s most controversial historical figures. In the mid-18th century, she was executed for the murder of a shoemaker, but legends have grown much darker over time. Some stories claim she was Ireland’s first serial killer, having hidden bodies in the brothel she managed, while others suggest she was a victim of a powerful man’s wrath and falsely accused of witchcraft. Regardless of which version you believe, her execution was a gruesome public event. Today, the area is much more peaceful, but the name remains a tribute to one of the city's most enduring and tragic urban legends, marking the boundary of the old medieval city.

Copper Alley

As you walk through the narrow passages of the Medieval Quarter, you will find Copper Alley. In the 17th and 18th centuries, this was part of 'The Liberties,' an area outside the strict jurisdiction of the city authorities. It was notorious for its overcrowding, poverty, and crime. The alley got its name from the copper tokens minted here by local traders when official coinage was scarce. This was the underbelly of Dublin, a place where life was cheap and the law was often absent. Walking through these streets today, you can still feel the tight, enclosed atmosphere of the medieval layout. It serves as a contrast to the grander structures nearby, reminding us of the harsh reality faced by the majority of Dubliners in centuries past.

Dublin Castle

Your walking route concludes at Dublin Castle. For over 700 years, this was the center of British power in Ireland. The Record Tower is the only surviving part of the original medieval fortress, which was built on the site of a Viking settlement. The castle sits above the 'Dubh Linn' or Black Pool, from which the city takes its name. While the State Apartments are grand, the castle’s history is filled with tales of political intrigue, prisoners held in dark cells, and the eventual handover of power to Michael Collins in 1922. It is a place where the history of the entire nation has been written, often in blood. Explore the courtyard and appreciate the layers of architecture that represent Dublin’s evolution from a medieval stronghold to a modern capital.

Frequently Asked Questions

The full walk typically takes between 2 to 3 hours. This depends on how much time you spend exploring the crypts at St Michan's and if you stop for a break at The Brazen Head.